PATAGONIA (Chile and Argentina).
14/Feb/2018 to 09/Mar/2018.
Itinerary :
Puerto Montt - Puerto Varas - Puerto Natales - El Calafate - Torres del Paine National Park - Punta Arenas - Ushuaia (Arg) - Tierra del Fuego National Park (Arg) - Puerto Williams - Punta Arenas - Santiago de Chile.
Wednesday 14/Feb/2018.
Home to Chile journey.
14/Feb/2018 to 09/Mar/2018.
Itinerary :
Puerto Montt - Puerto Varas - Puerto Natales - El Calafate - Torres del Paine National Park - Punta Arenas - Ushuaia (Arg) - Tierra del Fuego National Park (Arg) - Puerto Williams - Punta Arenas - Santiago de Chile.
1 € = 736 Pesos (CLP)
1 US$ = 619 Pesos
1 US$ = 619 Pesos
1 000 Pesos = 1.36 € = 1.62 US$.
Chilian and Argentinian Time = West European Time - 8 hours.
Chilian and Argentinian Time = West European Time - 8 hours.
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| 1000 Pesos banknote (1.36€) with the Cuernos del Paine mountain peaks on the back side (Parque Nacional Torres del Paine). |
Wednesday 14/Feb/2018.
Home to Chile journey.
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| Flight announcement for the 1st leg of a long journey : Marseille to Rome flight. |
- Alitalia flight AZ689 from Marseille (MRS) to Rome (FCO), 17:15-18:35, 01h20.
- Alitalia flight AZ688 from Rome (FCO) to Santiago de Chile (SCL), 22:00-9:15 (15/Feb/2018), 15h15, 837€ from MRS to SCL, return.
|---| Aircraft.
Thursday 15/Feb/2018.
Home to Chile journey, continued.
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| End of the 2nd leg: Rome to Santiago de Chile. |
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| Fligt announcement for the 3rd leg : Santiago to Puerto Montt. |
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| Multiple forest fires. |
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| Taking a shuttle bus from Puerto Montt's airport to town. |
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| Puerto Montt's fishing pier. |
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| Hotel street. |
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| The hotel for this night. |
- Transit time at Santiago airport, 5h10.
- Sky Airlines flight from Santiago (SCL) to Puerto Montt (PMC), 14:25-16:05, 1h40, 67US$ one way.
|---| Hotel Le Mirage, Puerto Montt, 58US$/n.
Friday 16/Feb/2018.
Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales journey.
Puerto VARAS.
A city with german roots and traditions.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Varas
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| Architectural evidence of the german settlement. |
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| Lourdes cave. |
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| Interior of the Sacred Heart of Jesus church, 1915. |
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| More german evidence, now culunary. |
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| View on the quite distant Osorno volcano (2652m). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osorno_(volcano) |
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| Bus terminal. |
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| Getting a fresh juice. |
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| Cheese shop. |
Four days ferry travel from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales.
Navimag Cargo-Ferry "Eden", 13:00 (16/Feb/2018 -16:00 (19/Feb/2018).
Jour 1: Puerto Montt.
Accueil à bord et consignes pour la navigation. Début de la navigation à 16h00. La navigation commence par l'estuaire de Reloncavi et le Golfe d'Ancud pour, en fin de journée, rentre dans le Golfe de Corcovado.
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| Chaotic embarking on the vessel. |
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| View from the deck while the vessel being loaded. |
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| Zoom on the Osorno volcano, 2652m. |
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| Sea lion. |
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| Eden's safety features, vessel built in Le Havre 1984. |
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| Alcohol-free Bar. |
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| Lectures about flora and fauna |
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| Sunset. |
Saturday 17/Feb/2018.
Jour 2: Le Golfe des Peines - Golfo de Peinas.
A l'aube nous commençons notre navigation dans le canal de Moraleda, l'un des plus profonds qui se navigue sur cet itinéraire. Nous naviguons ensuite les canaux Errazuriz et Costa avant d'entrer dans le canal Pulluche qui a la végétation la plus exhubérante ( forèts de hêtres et Ciprès). Si nous avons de la chance nous pourrons observer les dauphins, ou "toninas", les loups de mer et de nombreuses espèces d'oiseaux. En fin de journée on commence la navigation océanique dans le secteur du Golfe des Peines, traversée qui dure 12 heures environ et où l'on aura peut-être la chance (selon la saison et le climat) d'observer la baleine à bosse.
|---| Eden vessel.
Sunday 18/Feb/2018.
Jour 3: Bajo Cotopaxi - Puerto Eden.
Nous nous réveillons ce matin naviguant entre les fjords et la canal Messier qui atteint les 1270m de profondeur. Dans ce canal nous pourrons aussi observer le cargo " capitan Leonidas" échoué depuis 1970 sur un îlot à demi submergé et appellé " bajo Cotopaxi"; c'est aujourd'hui un point de référence pour les navigateurs. Nous traverserons ensuite Angostura Inglesa, un passage étroit pour arriver à Puerto Eden. C'est ici que vivent les derniers descendants au Chili du peuple indien Alakaluf, sur l'île Wellington. Cette île, l'une des plus grandes au Chili appartient au parc Bernardo O'Higgins. Le débarquement à Puerto Eden se fait si les conditions climatiques le permettent.
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| Virgin statue, greeted by the captain's horn. |
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| Port Eden, the only human settlement along the patagonian fjords route. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Puerto_Eden |
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| Port Eden, loading mussels and clams. |
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| From time to time the sun breaks through. |
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| Sunset. |
Monday 19/Feb/2018.
Jour 4: Angostura White.
Nous nous réveillons naviguant le canal Sarmiento avant d'entrer dans le passage le plus étroit, Angostura inherit, qui mesure 80m de large. Nous naviguons ensuite le fjord Union pour arriver dans le canal d'accès à Puerto Natales. Arrivée dans la matinée dans cette petite ville au bord du fjord, et porte d'accès au parc Torres del Paine. |
| Sunrise, while approaching the Angostura narrows. |
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| The Angostura narrow is only 80m wide. |
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| Approaching Puerto Natales, end of the adventurous 4 days "cruise". |
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| Docking. |
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| A nostalgic look back on the "Eden". |
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| Bedroom for the next two nights. |
|---| Hostal Costa Patagonica, Puerto Natales, 56US$/n.
Tuesday 20/Feb/2018.
Perito Moreno glacier (El Calafate, Argentina).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Natales
Organized tour 7:00-22:00, 60kPesos + 500 ARS (Argentina Pesos) park entry fee.
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| The Argentine border. |
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| Oops... |
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| The enthousiastic tour guide. |
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| The Perito Moreno glacier, reached after a 6h long bus ride. |
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| The beautiful glacier measures 60 to 80m above and 120m below the lake level, is 5km wide, and moves 2m per day !!! |
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| Taking the boat for a closer look. |
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| The end side of the glacier, high as a 25 story building, with frequent icefalls... |
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| El Calafate church |
Wednesday 21/Feb/2018.
Torres del Paine National Park - W trek - Day 1.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torres_del_Paine_National_Park
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| http://fsexpeditions.com/booking_hiker/torres_del_paine_map.html |
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| Back at the bridge of this morning. |
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| Furnished camping tent for tonight. |
Thursday 22/Feb/2018.
Torres del Paine National Park - W trek - Day 2.
Central campground to Francès campground.
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| Start of the day hike, fully packed. |
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| A guanaco. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanaco |
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| Marie on the nepalese bridge. |
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| 180 degree panorama. |
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| The dome-shelter at Francès, with tonight's 8 berth dorm, at 130US$. Quite expensive ! |
|---| Refugio Domo El Francès, 130US$/bed, no meals.
Friday 23/Feb/2018.
Torres del Paine National Park - W trek - Day 3.
Francès campground to Italiano, to Francès lookout, to Britanico lookout, and to Paine Grande lodge.
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| Italiano campsite, where one can drop the big backpack for a while. |
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| Francès lookout. |
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| Francès lookout. |
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| Britanico lookout. |
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| Britanico lookout. |
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| Britanico lookout, 180 degree horseshoe panorama. |
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| Picnic. |
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| Leaving Italiano on the nepalese bridge. |
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| Approaching the lodge (the dark building), and the pier for tomorrow's catamaran (the white square). |
|---| Refugio Paine Grande, 100US$/bed, including dinner + breakfast + packed lunch.
Saturday 24/Feb/2018.
Torres del Paine National Park - W trek - Day 4.
Paine Grande to Glaciar Grey, 2 x 3.5h + Lago Pehoé catamaran.
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| Start of the day hike |
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| Lago Grey. 180 degree panorama. |
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| Mirador Lago Grey, halfway the day hike. Floating icebergs, broken from the glacier. |
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| Glacier Grey, 28km long, 270km2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey_Glacier |
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| Lunchpack picnic at Refugio Grey. |
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| Glacier Grey. |
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| Glacier Grey. |
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| Lago Pehoé catamaran. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Pehoé |
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| End of the four day trek, leaving the catamaran for the 1.5h busride to Puerto Natales |
|---| Hostal Costa Patagonica, Puerto Natales, 56US$/n, including breakfast.
Sunday 25/Feb/2018.
Puerto Natales.
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| Puerto Natales. |
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| Puerto Natales |
|---| Hostal Alcazar, Puerto Natales, 59.50$/n (~49€), including breakfast.
Monday 26/Feb/2018.
Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas journey.
- Bus from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas, Bus-Sur, 6:45-10:00, 3h, 8000 Pesos (~11€).
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| Boarding the 6:45 bus at the Puerto Natales terminal. |
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| Punta Arenas and the Strait of Magellan, the Land of Fire is on the other side. |
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| The four-masted shipwreck is the County of Peebles (1875). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/County_of_Peebles_(ship) |
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| San Pedro, patron of Punta Arenas. |
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| Bernardo O'Higgins. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernardo_O'Higgins |
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| Memorial to Ferdinand Magellan, who first navigated through the strait. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferdinand_Magellan |
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| Memorial for the Chilean taking possesion of the Strait of Magellan, 21/Sep/1843. Read this article (In French). |
|---| La Petite Maison, Punta Arenas, 18000 Pesos (~25€), including breakfast.
Tuesday 27/Feb/2018.
Punta Arenas to Ushuaia journey.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ushuaia
- Bus from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, Tecni Austral, 8:30-19:30, 11h, 25000 Pesos (~35€).
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| Leaving the B&B. |
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| Boarding the bus at 8:30. |
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| Light house, where the street of Magellan merges with the Atlantic Ocean. |
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| Ferry crossing of the strait of Magellan. |
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| Ferry crossing of the strait of Magellan. |
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| Freezing cold selfie. |
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| Reached TIERRA DEL FUEGO, Land of Fire. |
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| Pampa landscape, with estancias (farms) spaced by about every 20km. |
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| Chilean border control. |
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| Argentina border control. |
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| Argentine police drugdog sniffing my blue backpack, and all those others from the bus as well (Rio Grande bus terminal). |
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| Tintin also famous in Rio Grande (Argentina). |
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| The last 200km the landscape suddenly changes from pampa to mountainous. Here lake Fagnano (picture made through the bus window). |
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| Reached Ushuaia after an 11h long bus ride, considered the southernmost city of the world (Funny, visited in 2016 Buenos Aires and also the small village of La Quiaca). |
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| Bedroom for the next three nights. |
Wednesday 28/Feb/2018.
Laguna Esmeralda hike.
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| The hike starts some 20km from town, in a dense forest, followed by a beaver-destroyed valley. |
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| A huge beaver dam. |
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| A Patagonian Fox, waiting to be fed? |
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| Swamps... Not easy to keep the shoes dry. |
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| Laguna Esmeralda, reached after a 1h30 hike. |
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| Ushuaia's port, full of mass-tourism cruise ships. |
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| Ushuaia. |
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| Famous Ramos Generales tea room and bar. |
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| In vino veritas (in wine, truth). |
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| Argentinian side of the Falklands war. |
|---| Rosa de los Vientos, Ushuaia, 76.50US$ (~63€), including breakfast.
Thursday 01/Mar/2018.
Cerro Guanaco trek in the Tierra del Fuego National Park.
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| Coastal trail,3h. |
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| Argentine post office pier. |
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| Coastal path. |
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| Cerro Guanaco trail (4h+3h). |
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| Lake view at the start of the intense climb. |
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| Odd-shaped trees. |
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| Beagle Strait. |
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| 180 degrees panorama. |
|---| Rosa de los Vientos, Ushuaia, 76.50US$ (~63€), including breakfast.
Friday 02/Mar/2018.
- Onashaga Expeditions' crossing of the Beagle Channel by Zodiac, from Ushuaia (Argentina) to Puerto Williams (Chile), 10:00-13:00, 3h.
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| In the port of Ushuaia, the bark Europa, ready to sail to Cape Town, a 52 days journey. |
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| Crossing the Beagle Strait to Puerto Navarino, leaving Ushuaia behind. |
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| Puerto Navarino jetty. |
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| Starting point of the rough five-days trek, the Circuito Dientes de Navarino, maybe to schedule for a next visit? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dientes_de_Navarino |
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| Reached the top of the Cerro Bandera, 610m. Puerto Williams below, and Argentina accross the Beagle Channel. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Hotel Fio Fio, Puerto Williams, 50000 Pesos (~69€), including breakfast.
Saturday 03/Mar/2018.
Bicycle ride and start of the return journey to Punta Arenas.
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| Yaghan people, famed for their complete indifference to the bitter weather around Cape Horn. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yaghan_people |
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| Most western point of the island, reached by bike. |
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| The Yaghan Cargo-Ferry, from Puerto Williams to Punta Arenas. |
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| Boarding at 15:30 for the 30-hours sailing. |
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| Leaving Puerto Williams and the Dientes de Navarino park. |
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| Cold and windy. |
|---| Transbordadora Austral Broom, 16:00-22:00 (04/Mar/2018), 30h, 151110CLP (~209€).
Sunday 04/Mar/2018.
Puerto Williams to Punta Arenas journey, continued.
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| For a few seconds some blue in thesky. |
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| 'Cruz de los Mares' at Cape Froward, 50m tall cross at South-America'southernmost point. First evidence of human intervention after a full day sailing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Froward |
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| San Isidro lighthouse, First evidence of human settlement after a full day sailing. https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phare_San_Isidro |
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| Bedroom for the next two nights. |
Monday 05/Mar/2018.
Isla Magdalena pinguin colony.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magdalena_Island,_Magallanes_Region
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| 32km sailing to the pingouin colony on Isla Madalena, (two hours one way, 35000 Pesos). |
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| Disembarking on Isla Magdalena. |
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| Whole Isla Magdalena is a Natural Reserve. |
Nao Victoria Museo.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museo_Nao_Victoria
Private museum, 4000 Pesos.
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| Ferdinand Magellan's ship "Victoria" (replica at scale 1:1), just 27m end to end, and 7m at the widest point. |
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| Indeed, there is not so much deck space. |
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Magellan's journey took nearly 3 years,
his vessel was the first to circumnavigate the globe.
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| Palacio Sara Brown, Punta Arena. |
|---| Hotel Albatros, Punta Arenas, 70US$/n (~60€).
Tuesday 06/Mar/2018.
Punta Arenas to Santiago journey.
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| Visit to a vintage hairdresser. |
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| Boarding the Punta Arenas to Santiago flight. |
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| On the left hand side, the perfect cone-shaped Osorno volcano. |
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| Bedroom for the next two nights. |
- Sky Airlines flight H2008 from Punta Arenas (PUQ) to Santiago, 13:40-17:00, 3h20.
|---| Ibis Santiago Estacion Central, Santiago de Chile, 62US$/n (~52€).
Wednesday 07/Mar/2018.
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| Taking the 9:40 bus for Valparaiso, a 1h40 ride. |
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| Highway toll gate. |
Valparaiso.
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| Ascensor Baron, 1906. |
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| Ascensor Baron. |
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| Ascensor Baron, top station. |
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| Ascensor Baron outlook. |
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| Ascensor Los Lecheros (out of service). |
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| Fresas con crema, mmm. |
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| Asterix and Obelix also taking Valparaiso's troleys and funiculars. |
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| Ascensor Polanco, access is through a long tunnel towards a lift with three stops, 1915. |
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| Ascensor Polanco. One stop of the lift is at street level, the other stop is at the top of the tower. |
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| Ascensor Polanco. 180 degree panorama from the top of the tower. |
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| Ascensor Reina Victoria. |
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| Ascensor Reina Victoria, 1903. as for all the other funiculars a 100 Pesos ride |
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| Ascensor Reina Victoria, lookout. |
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| Ascensor San Agustin. |
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| Ascensor San Agustin. |
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| Ascensor San Agustin. |
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| Ascensor Cordillera, 1886, being repaired. The alturnative are these stairs. |
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| Ascensor Cordillera, 1886 machinery. |
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| Ascensor Conception, 1883, out of service. |
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| Ascensor Monjas, 1912, out of service. |
- Turbus ride from Santiago to Valparaiso, 5700 Pesos return.
|---| Ibis Santiago Estacion Central, Santiago de Chile, 62US$/n (~52€).
Thursday 08/Mar/2018.
Santiago to Home journey.
- Alitalia flight AZ689, Santiago de Santiago to Rome, 12:45-07:00 (09/Mar/2018), 14h15.
|---| Aircraft seat.
Friday 09/Mar/2018.
Santiago to Home journey, continued.
- Alitalia flight AZ336 from Rome to Marseille, 14:55-16:20, 1h25.
|---| Home.
