CALABRIA and SICILY (Italy).
12/Jan/2018 to 06/Feb/2018.
Itinerary :
Catania - Messina - Villa San Giovanni - Motta San Giovanni - Pentedattilo - Galliciano - Roghudi Vecchio - Bianco - Sant'Agata del Bianco - Casignana - Bombile - Gioioso Ionica - Gerace - Riace - Stilo - Pazzano - Catanzaro - Sila National Park - Pantane - Valli Cupe di Sersale canyon - Crotone - San Giovanni in Fiore - Caccuri - Capo Rizzuto - Capo Colonna - Rossano - Rende - Papasidero (Romito Cave) - Diamante - Camigliatello - Pizzo - Tropea - Zungri - Capo Vaticano - Scilla - Reggio di Calabria - Aspromonte National Park - San Luca - Catania (Sant'Agata Procession).
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| Map of Calabria. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calabria |
Friday 12/Jan/2018.
Home to Messina journey.
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| Flight announcement for the second leg : Rome to Catania flight. |
- Vueling Airlines flight 6527 from Marseille (MRS) to Rome (FCO), 15:00-16:25, 1h25, 75.48€ for this and next flight.
- Transit at Rome airport, 3h15.
- Vueling Airlines flight 6138 from Rome (FCO) to Catania (CTA), 19:40-21:05, 1h25.
- Rental car ride from Catania to Messina.
|---| Europa Palace Hotel, Messina, 52.50€/n, including breakfast.
Saturday 13/Jan/2018.
Messina.
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| Messina's Orion fountain (1553). Orion is the mythical founder of Messina. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orion |
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| Messina's cathedral bell tower, 60m tall, with an astronomical clock and mechanical annimation. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Messina_Cathedral |
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| Messina's harbour light, the "Lanterna". |
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| Guarded by a golden Madonnina, the "Madonna della lettera". "We bless you and your city", a quote from a letter from the Virgin Mary to the population of Messina (in the year 42). |
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| Messina tram stop shelter. |
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| Sicily... |
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| Strait of Messina, separating Sicily from the continent, 3.1km on its narrowest point. |
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| Regional museum of Messina. |
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| Last Supper, Stefano Giordano, 1538. |
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| Judas Iscariot, detail from above painting. |
|---| Europa Palace Hotel, Messina (second night), 52.50€/n, including breakfast.
Sunday 14/Jan/2018.
Messina "Shakespeare Run".
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| Race bag, collected yesterday. Contents : the race bib (Competition number), and also some Sicilian goodies. |
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| Arrival (10.5km). ThankYou, Giovanni, for having made these pictures and movies ! |
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| Not such a good time, but still a medal ! |
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| 00:59:25 whereas I already made < 50 minutes. 153th out of 218 participants for the 'Shakespeare Run'. 9th out of 16 participants in my cathegory |
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| A 'Buon Caffè" to forget all this. The most important was to participate, isn't it ? |
Sunset over the Strait of Messina.
|---| Europa Palace Hotel, Messina (third night), 52.50€/n, including breakfast.
Monday 15/Jan/2018.
Messina to Calabria journey.
Messina to Calabria journey.
- Ferry crossing of the Straigt of Messina, from Messina to Villa San Giovanni (Calabria), 0h20, 37€ one way.
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| Messina to Villa San Giovanni ferry. |
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| Messina to Villa San Giovanni ferry. |
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| Messina to Villa San Giovanni ferry.The captain's lifeboat is well positioned. |
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| Not much to see in Villa San Giovanni, except for these square-cutted trees ? |
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| Sunset (bedroom view). |
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| Old-fashened bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Hotel La Conca, Villa San Giovanni, 39€/n, including breakfast.
Tuesday 16/Jan/2018.
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| Excellent visibility ! View on the Mount Etna volcano (Sicily), 3329m. |
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| Castel of Sant'Aniceto, Motta San Giovanni, 11th Century. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castle_of_Sant'Aniceto |
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| Ghost town Pentedattilo. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentedattilo |
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| Galliciano, an old-greek-dialect speaking village. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galliciano |
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| Galliciano. |
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| Roghudi Vecchio. The last inhabitants abandoned the village in 1973. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roghudi |
|---| Villa Helios, Bianco, 37€/n, including breakfast.
Wednesday 17/Jan/2018.
|---| Hotel Miramare, Gioioso Ionica, 27.72€/n, including breakfast.
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| Bergamot (sour orange) country. 95% of the world production comes from Calabria. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bergamot_orange |
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| White Olives, a very rare variety (leucolea), they stay white even when mature (picture stolen from the internet). |
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| White-olive trees. |
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| Olive picking. |
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| Italian style signposting. |
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| Santuario Madonna delle Grazie, Caraffa del Bianco. |
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| Sant'Agata del Bianco. |
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| Sant'Agata. |
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| Roman villa and thermal center, Palazzi, Casignana. https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_romana_di_Casignana |
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| Santuario della Madonna della Grotta di Bombile, closed since after a major collapse of the cliff on the 10/Apr/2004. Still promoted and signposted however... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyod690-gPo |
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| Santuario della Madonna della Grotta di Bombile... at the foot of the cliff, how it looked 14 years ago (picture stolen from the internet). |
|---| Hotel Miramare, Gioioso Ionica, 27.72€/n, including breakfast.
Thursday 18/Jan/2018.
Gerace & Stilo.
Monte Consolino.
|---| Hotel Citta del Sole, Stilo, 40€/n, including breakfast.
Friday 19/Jan/2018.
Cascata del Marmarico hike.
Monastero di San Giovanni Theristis.
|---| Hotel Citta del Sole, Stilo, 40€/n, including breakfast.
Pazzano.
Stilo.
Along the road to Catanzaro.
Catanzaro.
Sunday 21/Jan/2018.
A rainy day...
Sila National Park.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sila_National_Park
Monday 22/Jan/2018.
24km Hike in the Silla National Park of Calabria, 5h30.
Pantane - Mazzaforte (1587m) - Trocanesi (1338m) - Cannapia (1378m) - Pontevecchio (1158m) - Villagio Mancuso (1289m) - Pantane.
|---| B&B Alma, Crotone, 30€/n, including breakfast.
Gerace & Stilo.
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| Leaving the excellent 27€ sea-front hotel of last night. |
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| Gerace Cathedral with a fortification look, 11th Century, and the Bishop's Arch. https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duomo_di_Gerace |
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| Gerace cathedral, with its plain interior. The pillars are all different in terms of order, size, and colour. |
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| The ambry, storing the Holy Oil. The Holy Oil probably made from the white olives. |
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| Picnic-compatible beach. |
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| The Riace bronzes were found in the sea near this village. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riace_bronzes (refer also to 30/Jan/2018, Reggio's National Museum). |
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| La Cattolica, Stilo. Byzantine church from the 9th Century. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cattolica_di_Stilo |
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| La Cattolica, Stilo. |
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| La Cattolica, Stilo. |
Monte Consolino.
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| Hiking the Monte Consolino, 701m, Stilo. One can distinguish the castle at its summit. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Consolino |
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| Hiking the Monte Consolio, Stilo. |
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| The Norman castle at the top of the Monte Consolino, 12th Century. |
|---| Hotel Citta del Sole, Stilo, 40€/n, including breakfast.
Friday 19/Jan/2018.
Cascata del Marmarico hike.
Monastero di San Giovanni Theristis.
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| Monastero di San Giovanni Theristis, founded in the 11th Century. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Giovanni_Theristis |
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| Monastero di San Giovanni Theristis, it is an Orthodox monastery. |
|---| Hotel Citta del Sole, Stilo, 40€/n, including breakfast.
Saturday 20/Jan/2018.
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| Leaving the hotel. |
Pazzano.
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| Santuario di Santa Maria della Stella. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hermit_of_Santa_Maria_della_Stella |
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| Santuario di Santa Maria della Stella. |
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| Santuario di Santa Maria della Stella. |
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| Santuario di Santa Maria della Stella. |
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| Stilo's Duomo. Notice the marble feet integrated into the wall. |
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| Laura della Divina Pastorella. |
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| Laura della Divina Pastorella. |
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| Faro di Punta Stilo and the Kaulonia excavations (refer also to 30/Jan/2018, Calabria's National Museum). |
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| Chiesa dell'Immacolata, Badolato. unfortunately closed. |
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| So I missed this beautifully painted ceiling (picture stolen from the internet). |
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| Ionian Sea coastline with changing weather. |
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| The 'Rotatorio Gualtieri' roundabout, elevated on pillars on top of a valley.  (picture captured from the internet). |
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| Fontana del Cavatore. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Hotel San Giuseppe, Catanzaro,45€/n, including breakfast.
Sunday 21/Jan/2018.
A rainy day...
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| Post Office of Catanzaro, with Mimmo Rotella's mural (unfortunately his 'Décollage' museum was closed). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimmo_Rotella |
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| The old Funicular-Tramway terminus, Piazza Matteotti, Catanzaro, in typical Italian Liberty style. https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotofunicolare_di_Catanzaro |
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sila_National_Park
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| La Rotonda, Taverna, Sila National Park. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Il Semaforo Sila B&B, Pantane, Taverna, 22.50€ (yes !!!), including breakfast.
Monday 22/Jan/2018.
24km Hike in the Silla National Park of Calabria, 5h30.
Pantane - Mazzaforte (1587m) - Trocanesi (1338m) - Cannapia (1378m) - Pontevecchio (1158m) - Villagio Mancuso (1289m) - Pantane.
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| The hotel of last and next night. |
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| Leaving the asphalt road after 7 km for a snowy dust track. |
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| Very slippery after yesterday's rain and the freezing cold night. |
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| A signboard warns the trail is a dead-end ? |
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| Later on the meaning of the above signposting becomes clear. Fortunately a fallen tree, bridging the Simeri river, allowed to reach the other edge without accidents. |
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| Picnic time. |
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| Rangers then showed a nice trail for Villaggio Mancuso, for the return to the hotel. |
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| Villagio Mancuso. Many wooden mansions in poor conditions. |
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| Children-sized chapel. |
|---| Il Semaforo Sila B&B, Pantane, Taverna, 22.50€, including breakfast.
Tuesday 23/Jan/2018.
Tuesday 23/Jan/2018.
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San Rocco (Saint Roch), a pilgrim patron, also famous in Calabria.
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| A disturbing mural... |
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| Valli Cupe di Sersale slot canyon. https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valli_Cupe |
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| The B&B for the next two nights. |
|---| B&B Alma, Crotone, 30€/n, including breakfast.
Wednesday 24/Jan/2018.
San Giovanni in Fiore.
Spadafora.
Caccuri.
|---| B&B Alma, Crotone, 30€/n, including breakfast.
Rossano - Amarelli.
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amarelli
|---| Hotel San Diego, Rende, 38.50€/n, including breakfast.
Friday 26/Jan/2018.
Papasidero and Diamante.
Romito Cave.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romito_Cave
Sanctuary of Saint Mary of Constantinople.
Diamante.
|---| Hotel San Diego, Rende, 38.50€/n, including breakfast.
Saturday 27/Jan/2018.
Camigliatello - Sila National Park hike.
|---| Hotel San Diego, Rende, 35€/n.
Sunday 28/Jan/2018.
|---| Hotel Valemare, Tropea, 36.27€/n + 5€ breakfast.
Monday 29/Jan/2018.
|---| Hotel Valemare, Tropea, 36.27€/n + 5€ breakfast.
Tuesday 30/Jan/2018.
A cloudy day.
Reggio di Calabria.
Calabria - National Museum.
Gelateria Cesare.
|---| Hotel Continental, Reggio Calabria, 39€/n, including breakfast.
Wednesday 31/Jan/2018.
Aspromonte National Park.
|---| Hotel Continental, Reggio Calabria, 39€/n, including breakfast.
Thursday 01/Feb/2018.
Pietra Castella to Pietra Cappa hike.
Catania.
San Giovanni in Fiore.
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| Florense abbey. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joachim_of_Fiore |
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| Florense abbey church. |
Spadafora.
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| Discovering a crown artisan, who served ex-queen Paola of Belgium (born Donna Paolo Ruffo of Calabria). http://www.spadaforagioielli.it |
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| Serving not only kings and queens, also popes... |
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| At the end of a not-so-sober nice lunch... |
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| Caccuri. |
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| San Rocco (again) sanctuary, Caccuri. The saint is also invoked against the plague. |
|---| B&B Alma, Crotone, 30€/n, including breakfast.
Thursday 25/Jan/2018.
Rossano - Purple Codex.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rossano_Gospels
San Marco.
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| Le Castella, Capo Rizzuto. |
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| Greek column and lighthouse, Capo Colonna, only one amongst the 42 of the temple remains. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capo_Colonna |
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| Madonna di Capo Colonna sanctuary and the watch-tower. |
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| Beach near to Crotone. |
Rossano - Purple Codex.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rossano_Gospels
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| http://www.madeinsouthitalytoday.com/codex-purpureus.php |
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| The priceless illustrated 6th Century new-testament extract. |
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| The last supper and the washing of feet (picture taken from the internet). |
San Marco.
Rossano - Amarelli.
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amarelli
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| Amarelli, famous liquorice based liqueur factory. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquorice |
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| Leaving the Ionian sea (East coast), for the Tyrrenian sea (West coast). |
|---| Hotel San Diego, Rende, 38.50€/n, including breakfast.
Friday 26/Jan/2018.
Papasidero and Diamante.
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| Laino -castello and Laino-borgo. |
Romito Cave.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romito_Cave
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| The cave overhang. |
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| The famous 17000 years old rock-carving, same animal and same period as the Lascaux cave. |
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| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aurochs |
Sanctuary of Saint Mary of Constantinople.
Diamante.
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| Seafront promenade, Diamante |
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| Murals, Diamante. |
|---| Hotel San Diego, Rende, 38.50€/n, including breakfast.
Saturday 27/Jan/2018.
Camigliatello - Sila National Park hike.
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| Many hiking trails start from the Rangers Office. |
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| In front of one of the giant pine trees, this one stands at the "Colle del Pino Grande" (1400m). |
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| Prisoner's picnic, all I found at the ranger's shop. |
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| "Bivacco Carla" at the Colle Napoletana, 1420m. |
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| Crossing a deer. |
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| Lago Cecita. |
|---| Hotel San Diego, Rende, 35€/n.
Sunday 28/Jan/2018.
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| Capistranomain church, with the Renoir-assigned wall paintings. |
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| Pierre-Auguste Renoir fountain, Capistrano. |
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| Cave church, Pizzo. |
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| Hotel room view. |
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| Zoom on the Stromboli volcano. |
|---| Hotel Valemare, Tropea, 36.27€/n + 5€ breakfast.
Monday 29/Jan/2018.
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| Tropea. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tropea |
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| Tropea's 12th Century cathedral. |
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| 2nd WW bomb dropped on the cathedral, miraculously not explosed. |
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| Tropea. |
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| Rupestrian settlement in Zungri. http://www.madeinsouthitalytoday.com/zungri.php |
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| Capo Vaticano. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capo_Vaticano |
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| Capo Vaticano. |
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| Pizzo. |
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| Pizzo... famous for its Tartufo. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tartufo |
|---| Hotel Valemare, Tropea, 36.27€/n + 5€ breakfast.
Tuesday 30/Jan/2018.
A cloudy day.
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| Tropea. |
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| Scilla, the rock which is said to be the home of Homer's odyssey Scylla. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scilla,_Calabria |
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| Scylla fountain, Scilla. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scylla |
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| Reggio. |
Calabria - National Museum.
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| One of the famous Riace bronzes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riace_bronzes (refer also to 18/Jan/2018, Riace). |
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| Terracotta tiles from the Kaulonia temples (refer also to 20/Jan/2019, Kaulonia ruins). |
Gelateria Cesare.
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| The Etna obseved from Reggio's lungomare boulevard. |
|---| Hotel Continental, Reggio Calabria, 39€/n, including breakfast.
Wednesday 31/Jan/2018.
Aspromonte National Park.
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| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspromonte_National_Park |
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| Maesano waterfall hike. |
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| Maesano waterfall, three consecutive cascades. |
|---| Hotel Continental, Reggio Calabria, 39€/n, including breakfast.
Thursday 01/Feb/2018.
Pietra Castella to Pietra Cappa hike.
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| First glimpse on Pietra Cappa (the monolith stone in the center of the picture). |
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| Pietra Cappa, Europe's tallest monolith, looks as a giant Panetone. |
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| Difficult to avoid this family. |
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| Next obstacle, this flooded canyon. |
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| Managed to retrieve the trail thanks to the GPS. |
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| Foot of the giant monolith. |
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| The trail goes through this slit. |
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| A glimpse on San Luca, a most dangerous village, stronghold of the Ndrngheta (Calabria mafia). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Luca |
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| On the return, a "Popemobile" stopping for me ! |
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| With the local pope. |
Back in Sicily after taking an evening ferry to Messina.
Start of the week-long Sant'Agata celebrations.
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2020 celebration
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2019 celebration
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2017 celebration
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2016 celebration
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2015 celebration
|---| Hotel Royal, Catania, 83.10€/n, including breakfast.
Friday 02/Feb/2018.
|---| Hotel Royal, Catania (2nd night), 70.49€/n, including breakfast.
Saturday 03/Feb/2018.
|---| B&B Aloisio, San Gregorio di Catania, 64.80€/n/2p, including breakfast.
Sunday 04/Feb/2018.
|---| Casa Lantana B&B, San Gregorio di Catania.
Monday 05/Feb/2018.
|---| Casa lantana B&B, San Gregorio di Catania
Tuesday 06/Feb/2018.
- Alitalia Flight from Catania (CTA) to Milan (LIN), 14:50-16:40, 1h50, 45.67€.
|---| Karolien's flat, Milan.
Start of the week-long Sant'Agata celebrations.
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2020 celebration
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2019 celebration
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2017 celebration
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2016 celebration
CLICK HERE for the post about the 2015 celebration
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| Even if the three days long Sant'Agata celebration will officially start only in two days from now, one can already notice some excitement. |
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| The (usual) hotel for the next two nights. |
|---| Hotel Royal, Catania, 83.10€/n, including breakfast.
Friday 02/Feb/2018.
|---| Hotel Royal, Catania (2nd night), 70.49€/n, including breakfast.
Saturday 03/Feb/2018.
Fireworks opens the Sant'Agata celebration.
|---| B&B Aloisio, San Gregorio di Catania, 64.80€/n/2p, including breakfast.
Sunday 04/Feb/2018.
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| Arrived 5:30 for the Messa dell'Aurora. |
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| Cathedral is over-full of people, so the devotees must assist to the service watching a giant TV screen. |
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| Enthousism increase when Sant'Agata leaves the cathedral for her first day of procession. |
Sant'Agata leaving the cathedral for her first procession round.
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| Sant'Agata souvenirs. |
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| The delicious ricotta cassatine, or "Minne di Sant'Agata", representing Agata's amputated breasts. These sweets become available right after the church service, |
Monday 05/Feb/2018.
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| While Sant'Agata counts down for here second procession round, a visit to the Simeto nature reserve. The secound procession round starts at 17:00. |
"Devoti" awaiting Sant'Agata.
They will complete the course of the procession
carrying these (up to 100kg) candles on their shoulders.
They will complete the course of the procession
carrying these (up to 100kg) candles on their shoulders.
Hysterical "Devoti".
A more devout and considerate attendance for
the procession carriage with Sant'Agata's relics.
|---| Casa lantana B&B, San Gregorio di Catania
Tuesday 06/Feb/2018.
Next moring, after a night long procession,
Sant'Agata finally returns to the cathedral.
- Alitalia Flight from Catania (CTA) to Milan (LIN), 14:50-16:40, 1h50, 45.67€.
|---| Karolien's flat, Milan.
