FRANCIGENA del SUD pilgrimage (Italy).
16/May/2018 to 15/Jun/2018.
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| http://www.viefrancigenedelsud.it/en/ |
Itinerary :
Roma - Castel Gandolfo - Velletri - Cori - Sezze - Fossanova - Terracina - Fondi - Formia - Sessa Aurunca - Pietramelara - San Potito Sannitico - Telese Terme - Benevento - Buonalbergo - Celle di San Vito - Troia - Ordona - Cerignola - Canosa di Puglia - Corato - Bitonto - Bari - Mola di Bari - Monopoli - Torre Canne - Torre Santa Sabina - Brindisi - Lecce - Leuca (750km).
CLICK HERE for the Via Francigena pilgrimage of 2017, from Pavia to Rome
CLICK HERE for the Magna Via Francigena pilgrimage of 2019, Palermo to Agrigento
CLICK HERE for the Magna Via Francigena pilgrimage of 2019, Palermo to Agrigento
P A Y A T T E N T I O N !
The time-axe of this post differs from most of my other posts :
The most recent contributions are found at the top rather than at the bottom of this post. I.e. the first day of the pilgrimage (16/May) will be found at the end of the post, whereas the last day of the pilgrimage (15/Jun) will be found at the top of the post.
Friday 15 Jun/2018.
LAST DAY OF THE PILGRIMAGE.
LAST DAY OF THE PILGRIMAGE.
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| Flight from Brindisi to Milano-Bergamo. |
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| Milano's Duomo. |
- Ryanair Flight FR8496 from Brindisi (BDS) to Milano-Bergamo (BGY), 12:45-14:25, 1h40, 30.34€.
|---| Karolien's flat, Milano.
Thursday 14/Jun/2018.
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| Masseria Brancati. |
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| Masseria Brancati. |
Ostuni.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ostuni
 |
| Ostuni. |
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| Ostuni. |
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| Ostuni. |
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| Torre Pozzelli beach. |
|---| Hotel Colonna, Brindisi, 63€, including breakfast.
Wednesday 13/Jun/2018.
- Train from Brindisi to Lecce. - Bus from Lecce to Santa Maria di Leuca.
Santa Maria di Leuca - "De Finibus Terrae".
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| The sanctuary. I couldn't get the pilgrim stamp, the nuns having siesta until 16:30. |
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| HINC HUMILIBUS VENIAM REPROBIS VERO RUINAM Here indulgence to the humble. Doom however to the viscious. |
Punta Meliso.
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| Punta Meliso, hard to reach. |
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| Punta Meliso, where the Adriatic and Ionian waters merge. |
Lecce.
CLICK HERE for the pictures of my 2014 visit
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| Lecce's Duomo. |
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| Lecce's Duomo. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Corte del Pascià B&B, Lecce, 45.90€, including breakfast.
Tuesday 12/Jun/2018.
Torre Santa Sabina to Brindisi (Hike 27, 30.6km).
Torre Santa Sabina to Brindisi (Hike 27, 30.6km).
 |
| Sunrise, 5:00. |
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| Torre Guaceto natural reserve. |
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| Torre Guaceto natural reserve. |
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| Torre Guaceto natural reserve. |
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| An appreciated break at this lido, "Palm Beach", with the first bar of the day. |
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| Case Bianche beach. |
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brindisi
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| Tempio di San Giovanni al Sepolcro, 12th Century. https://it.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiesa_di_San_Giovanni_al_Sepolcro |
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| Tempio di San Giovanni al Sepolcro. |
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| Reaching the end of the 750km pilgrimage. |
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| Brindisi's Duomo. |
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| The roman columns in view (center of the picture), marking the end of the Via Appia, the Via Troiana, and... the Francigena. |
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| 11:45. An exhausted pilgrim, happy end of his Francigena pilgrimage. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Hotel Colonna, Brindisi, 63€, including breakfast.
Monday 11/Jun/2018.
Torre Canne to Torre Santa Sabina (Hike 26, 28.4km).
mapTorre Canne to Torre Santa Sabina (Hike 26, 28.4km).
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| Oops... road is blocked because of the fast train service. |
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| A full day hike surrounded by the centuries-old olive trees. |
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| Looks as if the older olive trees got a traceability number in the Puglia region. |
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| Masseria San Giovanni. |
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| Montalbano dolmen, dated 2000 bC. https://it.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portale:Fasano/Dolmen |
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| Porcupine-danger. |
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| Inside the natural reserve the waymarking improved. |
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| Picnic along the bicycle road. |
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| Torre Santa Sabina. |
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| Sunset. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Donnosanto Residence, Torre Santa Sabina, 50€, including breakfast.
Sunday 10/Jun/2018.
Monopoli to Torre Canne (Hike 25, 22.2km).
Monopoli to Torre Canne (Hike 25, 22.2km).
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| Leaving Monopoli. |
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| Cale Verde. |
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| Torre Cintola, with a welcome seafront bar. |
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| A late breakfast at this nice bar. |
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| Torre San Giorgio. |
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| San Giorgio, small early medieval rupestrian church. |
Egnazia.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gnatia
Torre Cane.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gnatia
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| Egnazia archaeological site. |
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| Invited for coffee by this kind people. |
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| The chapel of these nice people, also for purchase. |
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| Back to the Adriatic coastline. Still 20 minutes to go. |
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| Torre Cane's light house. |
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| Nun's bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Case per Ferie, Sacro Cuore al Mare, Torre Canne, 30€ including breakfast.
Saturday 09/Jun/2018.
Mola di Bari to Monopoli (Hike 24, 25.2km).
Mola di Bari to Monopoli (Hike 24, 25.2km).
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| Leaving Mola di Bari (view from from the B&B terrace). |
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| Funny gnomes porting the cathedral columns. |
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| Centuries-old olive trees. |
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| Cala Paura, Polignano a mare. |
Polignano.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polignano_a_Mare
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| Polignano. |
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| Polignano. |
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| Polignano. |
Monopoli.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopoli
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| Arriving right time for the procession with Monopoli's patrons. |
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| Saint Cosmas (or Saint Damian?). |
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| The second Saint, twin brother from the one above. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saints_Cosmas_and_Damian |
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| Saint Catald. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catald |
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| Monopoli's port. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| B&B U Mare Mio, Monopoli, 45€, including breakfast.
Friday 08/Jun/2018.
Bari to Mola di Bari (Hike 23, 23.6km).
Bari to Mola di Bari (Hike 23, 23.6km).
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| Looking backwards to interesting Bari. |
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| A romantic picnic place. |
Bari Torre a Mare.
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| Magnificent bougainvillea. |
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| Torre a Mare. |
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| Torre a Mare. |
Mola di Bari.
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| Mola di Bari. |
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| Mola di Bari. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| B&B Le Terrazze, Mola-di-Bari, 40.70€, including breakfast.
Thursday 07/Jun/2018.
Bitonto to Bari (Hike 22, 20.7km).
Bitonto to Bari (Hike 22, 20.7km).
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| First contact with the Adriatic sea, meaning I crossed Italy from West to East coast. |
Bari.
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| Fashist period relics... |
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| Italian food megastore. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eataly |
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| Entering the historical center. |
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| Bari's Duomo. |
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| Italian post vehicle, sized to the narrow streets. |
Saint Nicholas Basilica.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Nicholas
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| Saint Nicholas, A surprise to discover him with a dark skin ! |
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| Orthodox-Christian crypt, with Saint Nicholas' relics. Mostly russian pilgrims pray here. |
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| The relics chapel holds pieces of the Holy Cross. |
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| Nice fish soup lunch. |
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| Train returning to Bitonto. |
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| Disappointed, noticing that my dayhike values only 1.40€. |
|---| B&B Palazzo Santorelli, Bitonto (2nd night), 31.50€, including breakfast.
Wednesday 06/Jun/2018.
Corato to Bitonto (Hike 21, 26.7km).
Corato to Bitonto (Hike 21, 26.7km).
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| Leaving Corato. |
Ruvo.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruvo_di_Puglia
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| Ruvo. |
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| San Rocco... |
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| Cattedrale dell' Asunta, 12th century. |
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| Cattedrale dell' Asunta, 12th century. |
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| Torre Campanaria, 10th Century. |
Bitonto.
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| Ceiling of the cathedral. |
Early Christian church
(Cathedral crypte).
5th Century.
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| Gryphon. |
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| Chiesa del purgatorio. |
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| The B&B for tonight. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| B&B Palazzo Santorelli, Bitonto (1st night), 31.50€, including breakfast.
Tuesday 05/Jun/2018.
Canosa di Puglia to Corato (Hike 20, 32.7km).
Canosa di Puglia to Corato (Hike 20, 32.7km).
|---| Albergo La Dimora, Corato, 40.50€, room only.
Monday 04/Jun/2018.
Cerignola to Canosa di Puglia (Hike 19, 18.4km).
Cerignola to Canosa di Puglia (Hike 19, 18.4km).
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| Illicite assets recovered from land mafia. |
Canosa di Puglia.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canosa_di_Puglia
|---| B&B Casa di Nonna Lia, Canosa di Puglia, 35€, including breakfast.
Sunday 03/Jun/2018.
Ordona to Cerignola (Hike 18, 24.9km+~4km).
Ordona to Cerignola (Hike 18, 24.9km+~4km).
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| Hot issues for the brand-new italian gouvernement. |
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| Stornara. |
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| Stornara, San Rocco, again and again. |
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| After nearly two sun-exposed hours on this road, finally some shadow ! |
Cerignola.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerignola
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| Milestone column of the Trajan way. |
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| Piano delle fosse del grano. https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piano_delle_Fosse_del_Grano |
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| The B&B for tonight. |
|---| B&B Casa Giulia, Cerignola, 40€, including breakfast.
Saturday 02/Jun/2018.
Troia to Ordona (Hike 17, 34.6km).
Troia to Ordona (Hike 17, 34.6km).
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| Leaving Troia. |
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| A last glimpse on Troia. |
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| Borgo Segezia, Fashist-build agrarian settlement (1939). Good surprise to find a bar ! |
Incoronata.
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| Basilica. |
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| Ex-votos. |
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| Pilgrim-bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Casa del Pellegrino, Santuario Madre di Dio Incoronata, near Ordona, 20€, room only.
Friday 01/Jun/2018.
Celle di San Vito to Troia (Hike 16, 15.7km).
Celle di San Vito to Troia (Hike 16, 15.7km).
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| A last glimpse on Celle di San Vito then stars a long descend to the plain. |
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| One might distinguish the Adriatic Sea at the horizon. |
Troia.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troia,_Apulia
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| 11th Century bronze doors. |
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| Troia's cathedral, with the mystical 11-sectors rose window. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troia_Cathedral |
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| The rose window, with eleven segments. |
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| San Benedetto church, with its beautiful ceiling. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Svegliarsi nei Borghi, Donna Ida, Troia, 31.5€, including breakfast.
Thursday 31/May/2018.
Buonalbergo to Celle di San Vito (Hike 15, 28.8km+5km).
Buonalbergo to Celle di San Vito (Hike 15, 28.8km+5km).
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| Leaving Buonalbergo in the early morning. |
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| Remaining pillar of a huge roman bridge. |
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| Once more à San Rocco statue. |
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| Tiny mud volcano. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mud_volcano |
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| 12:00 Picnic time... (with the local caciocavallo cheese). |
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| ... even if only half way. |
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| A first cool water fountain. |
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| Still hours to go. |
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| Exhausted.. |
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| Taverna di San Vito, 2nd cool water fountain, and old pilgrim hospital along the Via Troiana. |
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| Nearly arrived at Celle di San Vito, little village of 100 inhabitants, speaking francoprovencal language. |
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| Arrival. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Casa delle Fontanelle, Celle di San Vito, 35€, half board.
Wednesday 30/May/2018.
Benevento to Buonalbergo (Hike 14, 24.2km).
Benevento to Buonalbergo (Hike 14, 24.2km).
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| The path for Monte Sant'Angelo, and that for Brindisi, will separate soon. |
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| The pilgrim-hostel for tonight. |
|---| Casa del Pellegrino, Buonalbergo, 20€, including dinner.
Tuesday 29/May/2018.
Telese Terme to Benevento (Hike 13, ~30km), * last day of the four-day variant *.
Telese Terme to Benevento (Hike 13, ~30km), * last day of the four-day variant *.
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| Castello Ducale. |
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| Castello Ducale. |
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| Near to Benevento, Still one hour to go. |
Benevento.
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| Arch of Trajan, marking the start of the Via Traiana. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Trajan_(Benevento) |
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| The Via Traiana, splitting-off from the Via Appia in Benevento. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_Traiana |
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| Benevento's duomo, 1960 rebuild after the 1943 destruction. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benevento_Cathedral |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| 30mt dal Duomo, Benevento, 35€, including breakfast.
Monday 28/May/2018.
San Potito Sannitico to Telese Terme (Hike 12, ~35km), * four-day variant *.
San Potito Sannitico to Telese Terme (Hike 12, ~35km), * four-day variant *.
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| New type of waymarking, A styled fish to point the direction of Brindisi. |
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| Parco del Grassano. |
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| Terme di Telese. |
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| Four-star hotel for tonight. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Grand Hotel Telese, Telese Terme, 51.26€, including breakfast.
http://www.grandhoteltelese.it
http://www.grandhoteltelese.it
Sunday 27/May/2018.
Pietramelara to San Potito Sannitico (Hike 11, ~35km), * four-day variant *.
Pietramelara to San Potito Sannitico (Hike 11, ~35km), * four-day variant *.
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| A last glimpse on Pietramelara. |
Alife.
(that's the name of the town).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alife,_Campania
 |
| Mausoleum Acilii Glabriones. |
San Potito Sannitico.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Potito_Sannitico
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| Sovereign Military Order of the Temple of Jerusalem. |
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| Tonight procession of the town patron, Saint Potitus (4th Sunday of May). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potitus |
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| The B&B for tonight. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Il Palazzo, San Potito Sannitico, 35€, including breakfast - BOOKED.
http://www.affittacamereilpalazzo.com/default.asp
http://www.affittacamereilpalazzo.com/default.asp
Saturday 26/May/2018.
Sessa Aurunca to Pietramelara (Hike 10, ~30km), * first day of the four-day variant *.
Sessa Aurunca to Pietramelara (Hike 10, ~30km), * first day of the four-day variant *.
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| A last glimpse on Sessa Aurunca. |
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| Corbara. |
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| A figue tree is growing through the window. |
Teano.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teano
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| 200km distant from Rome, according to this Via Francigena monument. |
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| Teano's roman theatre. |
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riardo
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| Looking backwards to Riardo. |
Pietramelara.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pietramelara
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| Saint Roch (once more), the pilgrim-Saint of Montpellier, also patron of Petramelara. |
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| Fascinating abandoned medieval hill town. |
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| The hotel for tonight. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Hotel Rosso di Sera, Pietramelara, 54€, including breakfast.
http://www.hotelrossodisera.it/index.html
http://www.hotelrossodisera.it/index.html
Friday 25/May/2018.
Formia to Sessa Aurunca (Hike 9, 33.3km).
Formia to Sessa Aurunca (Hike 9, 33.3km).
 |
| Picnic time. |
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| Not exactly NY Times Square here at night. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| La Rinascente da Nicola, Sessa Aurunca, 30€.
Thursday 24/May/2018.
Fondi to Formia (Hike 8, 31.7km).
Fondi to Formia (Hike 8, 31.7km).
Fondi.
Appia Antica.
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| Saint Roch (once more), the pilgrim-Saint of Montpellier, also patron of Fondi. |
Appia Antica.
Itri.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itri
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| San Michele church, 11th century. |
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| San Michele church. |
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| A Lourdes cave. |
Formia.
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| Local pilgrims. |
|---| Dall' Architetto, Formia, 40€, including breakfast.
Wednesday 23/May/2018.
Terracina to Fondi (Hike 7, 17.6km).
Terracina to Fondi (Hike 7, 17.6km).
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| Lago di Fondi. |
Monastero San Magno.
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| San Magno. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Monastero San Magno, Fondi.
Tuesday 22/May/2018.
Abbazia di Fossanova to Terracina (Hike 6, 20.6km).
Abbazia di Fossanova to Terracina (Hike 6, 20.6km).
- Morning bus ride returning to Abbazia di Fossanova.
Campo Soriano.
Monumento_naturale_Campo_Soriano
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| The "Cathedral" natural monument. |
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| Grotta Zi Checca. |
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| Sea view on the descend to Terracina. |
Terracina (cont'd) .
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| Terracina's Duomo. |
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| Chiesa del Purgatorio. "Hodie Mihi, Cras Tibi" (Today Me, Tomorrow You). |
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| Terracina Beach. |
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| Seafood lunch at the fishermen cooperative. |
|---| Hegelberger (2nd night), Terracina, 31€, including breakfast.
Monday 21/May/2018.
Sezze to Abbazia di Fossanova (Hike 5, 22.2km).
Sezze to Abbazia di Fossanova (Hike 5, 22.2km).
Priverno.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Priverno
 |
| Entering Priverno. |
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| Priverno's Duomo and Town Hall. |
 |
| Canale Scolmatore. |
Abbazia di Fossanova.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fossanova_Abbey
- Evening bus ride to Terracina (as no lodging available at Abbazia-di-Fossanova, 17:03, 1.50€, 18km.
Terracina.
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| Porta Romana. |
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| Piazza Duomo. |
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| Bedroom for the next two nights. |
|---| Hegelberger B&B (1st night), Terracina, 31€, including breakfast.
Sunday 20/May/2018.
Cori to Sezze (Hike 4, 29.1 + 5km detour).
Cori to Sezze (Hike 4, 29.1 + 5km detour).
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| Descend from Cori (Cori in the center of the picture). |
Norma.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norma,_Lazio
 |
| Entering Norma. |
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| First Communion day in Norma. |
Sermoneta.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sermoneta
Sermoneta to Sezze.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sermoneta
Sermoneta to Sezze.
 |
| Looking over my shoulder to Sermoneta (Sermoneta in the center of the picture). |
Sezze.
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| Hotel for tonight, reached at 17:00, worn-out. |
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| Bedroom for tonight. |
Saturday 19/May/2018.
Velletri to Cori (Hike 3, 22km).
Velletri to Cori (Hike 3, 22km).
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| Lunch. |
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| Hotel room for tonight. |
Temple of Hercules.
Santa Maria del Soccorso.
|---| Hotel del Colle, Cori, 40€, half board.
Friday 18/May/2018.
Castel-Gandolfo to Velletri (Hike 2, 19.7km).
Castel-Gandolfo to Velletri (Hike 2, 19.7km).
 |
| Bedroom view. |
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| Sweet breakfast, Italian style. |
 |
| Roman pavement ? |
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| Road works. |
Famous for the 'Fragoline', tiny woodland strawberries.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nemi
 |
| Entering Nemi. |
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| There many strawberry bars. |
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| Nemi lake, where Caligula's ships were discovered. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Nemi https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nemi_ships |
Velletri.
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| Porta Napoletana. |
 |
| B&B and Pizzeria for tonight. |
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| Huge dinner pizza. |
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| Pilgrim Bedroom for tonight, more basic than yesterday. |
|---| Ristorante Arena, Velletri, 40€, half board.
Thursday 17/May/2018.
Rome to Castel Gandolfo (Hike 1, 26.5km).
FIRST DAY OF THE PILGRIMAGE.
Rome to Castel Gandolfo (Hike 1, 26.5km).
FIRST DAY OF THE PILGRIMAGE.
 |
| Leaving the B&B. |
How to get the St Peter's basilica stamp on the 'Credential' (Pilgrim Passport) ?
 |
| 1. Negotiate with the very polite and kind Swiss Guards. |
 |
| 2. Negotiate with the Carabinieri (also running a shop). |
 |
| 3. Access the basilica through a back door (the basilica still being closed for public). |
 |
| 4. Find the Sacristia and the priest with the stamp, drop some coins in the box. |
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| 5. Get the first stamp on the Credential, at the cost of a few coins and just a 30 minutes delay. |
Saint Peter's square (Piazza San Pietro).
 |
| Starting point of the Francigena del Sud (the first direction goes East). |
 |
| Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II, bridge across the Tiber. |
 |
| Castel Sant'Angelo. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castel_Sant'Angelo |
 |
| Monument to Vittorio Emanuel, also called 'The Typewriter' because of its look. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altare_della_Patria |
Via Appia (Appian Way).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appian_Way
 |
| First mile stone. |
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| Basalt paving stones. |
 |
| San Sabastiano Catacombs. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catacombs_of_San_Sebastiano |
 |
| Cecilia Metella Mausoleum ruins. https://it.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mausoleo_di_Cecilia_Metella |
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| Mausoleo di Romolo ruins (son of Cesar). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valerius_Romulus |
 |
| Alban mountains in sight. |
 |
| Spritz, and a lunch sandwich. Soon after, the Francigena leaves the Via Appia for the Alban mountains slope. |
Castel Gandolfo.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castel_Gandolfo
 |
| Castel Gandolfo sits on the rim of an extinct volcan, and has the papal summer residence. |
 |
| Lago Albano, or Castel Gandolfo lake, reached after a 7h hike from Vatican. |
 |
| Castel Gandolfo's market square. |
 |
| The papal summer residence. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papal_Palace_of_Castel_Gandolfo |
 |
| Bedroom for tonight. |
|---| Hotel Castel Vecchio, Castel Gandolfo, 49.50€, including breakfast.
Wednesday 16/May/2018.
Home to Rome journey.
Home to Rome journey.
 |
| Backpack goal reached, below the 8kg target. |
 |
| Marseille-Rome flight announcement. |
- Vueling flight VY6593 from Marseille (MRS) to Rome (FCO), 16:45-18:10, 1h25, 34.99€ (one way).
 |
| Saint Peter's square. My Francigena del Sud pilgrimage will start here. |
 |
| St Peter's basilica. |
 |
| Hotel room for tonight. |
|---| Alice Vatican House, Vaticano Prati, Rome, 53.50€, no meals.
https://www.chezalicevatican.it
https://www.chezalicevatican.it
