Tuesday, October 3, 2017

Shikoku_2

JAPAN.
Shikoku's 88 Temple Pilgrimage,
Temples XXIII to LXXXVIII.

04/Oct/2017 to 27/Nov/2017.

CLICK HERE to jump near the end of this post (directly to the 1st of November, Temple 80)
CLICK HERE to access the second part of this Japan stay (09/Nov/2017 onwards)
CLICK HERE to access the May 2015 pilgrimage post (Temples I to XXII, 6days, 150km)




Classical 'Henro' outfit (Japanese Buddhist pilgrims).
These days, only bus-tourist pilgrims wear all of the elements.

A heartwarming picture from my May 2015 pilgrimage until temple 22.
When resting in this pilgrim hut, that lady brought me an orange as 'Ossetai'
(a small gift), her way to participate to my pilgrimage.
CLICK HERE to access the May 2015 pilgrimage post.

1 € = 133 ¥
1 US$ = 113 ¥
1 ¥ = 0.75 € cent = 0.89 US $ cent. 

Japanese Time = European Summer Time + 7 hours.






Wednesday 04/Oct/2017.

Home to Osaka journey.


Departure.
Happy to take the airport shuttle !  

- Flight from Marseille to Frankfurt, Lufthansa LH1087, 10:40-12:20, duration 1h40, Airbus A320.
- Flight from Frankfurt to Osaka Kansai, Lufthansa LH740, 13:20-(5/Oct)7:40, duration 11h20, Boeing 747-400.


Flight announcement for the first flight of the journey : Marseille-Frankfurt.

The Mont Blanc pops up through the clouds.

Frankfurt, just in time to catch my "connecting flight" for Osaka. 

The plane suddenly made a big détour, avoiding North Korea. Better like that !


|---| Aircraft seat.


Thursday 05/Oct/2017.
Osaka to Tokushima journey and jetlag recovery.

- Bus from Osaka Kansai airport to Tokushima, 8:40-11:25, duration 2h45, 4100¥.


In the hotel lobby they still show my picture of two years ago !
Bando train station, 20 minutes from Tokushima.
Then a 15 minutes walk to the first temple. 

Entrance gate for the first temple, Ryozenji.

Temple 1.
Statue of Kobo Daishi. He founded the 88 temples of the pilgrimage. 

Temple 1.
Around the temple, one can buy the complete "pilgrim outfit". 

|---| Hotel Avanti, Tokushima, Shikoku, ¥3900 (33€) including breakfast, same hotel as two years ago.


Friday 06/Oct/2017.
Awa Fukui - Hiwasa hike (~33km, hilly).
Awa Fukui is nearby to where I broke the pilgrimage in 2015.

- 6:47 train from Tokushima to Awa Fukui station, ~1h30 ride.


Despite the hotel breakfasts were not yet dispatched at 6:15, I obtained one from the staff. 
Awa Fukui train stop, right in the middle of nowhere.

Next to the station, locals sell their garden greens.










Seems like nobody passed here for a while, huge spiders built sticky webs across the trail.

A pilgrim hut.




Around 10:00 it starts raining, for the remaining of the day.

First view on the ocean, while one could already hear the rolling waves much earlier.




10 minutes rain relief from a 800m tunnel.



Abu.





After having unsuccessfully carved one eye of a haloween pumpkin, they seem to have changed their approach.


- Train from Hiwasa to Kaifu and from Kaifu to Shishikui (as no lodging available in Hiwasa that night), 0h50 journey.

|---| Pension Shishikui, Shishikui, ¥7250 (61€), including breakfast.


Saturday 07/Oct/2017.
Hiwasa - Shishikui (~38km hike, made in opposite direction: from Shishikui to Hiwasa, for practical reasons).

Leaving the hotel at sunrise, 6:00.

Hotel beach, not noticed yesterday, as I arrived while it was night.

Decorated bridge in town.
Mugi's fishing harbour.

With a lot of bazar.


The day starts  with a 15 minutes bamboo forest trail.



Crossing two japanese henros.



Crossing a funny marathon lady.

Facing a long road tunnel, the asphalt is left for a hilly mountain trail with superb views (Senba Kaigai Cliff). 

A nice place for picnic.
Picnic time. This time with hotel-prepared food.


Hiwasa.


Hiwasa castle (early 16th century), now in ruins. 

Hiwasa, with the ongoing Jinja festival.
One could hear the sound of the drums from far away.

Hiwasa Jinja festival.


Temple 23 - YAKUOJI.

Temple 23 - Yakuōji.

Temple 23.

Temple 23.

Temple 23.

Temple 23.

Temple 23.

Hotel room for tonight.

Family Mart (a convenience store)-assembled room dinner. 

|---| Cairns Hotel, Hiwasa (as no lodging available in Shishikui that night), room only, 4900¥. 


Sunday 08/Oct/2017.
TEMPLE 23 YAKUOJI.
Shishikui - Sakihama-cho (~28km hike).


One more visit to temple 23, Yakuoji, now with the  morning light.

Temple 23.

A Japan-sized camper.

- 7:31 train from Hiwasa to Kaifu and from Kaifu to Kannoura 0h50 Journey, 820¥.



A surf spot.
Plenty of surfers waiting for their wave. 

Route 55, almost with a US Road 66 look.







From time to time the pilgrimage trail leaves the main road (Road 55) to reach small villages.

Here the village road crosses a cemetery.

This biking pilgrim needed a chat with me.

What's going on here (Sakahima) ?

Another village festival.

Room with Ocean view !

Once more a micro waved convenience-store dinner.

|---| Ozaki Lodge, Sakihama-cho, 4000¥ room only.


Monday 09/Oct/2017.
TEMPLES 24 & 25, HOTSUMISAKIJI & SHINSHOJI.
Sakihama-cho - Muroto (~25km hike).


Sunrise observed from my balcony.


Leaving the room in good shape.

The pilgrim hotel of last night.

Meoto Rock (Couple Rock) at Cape Kabukabana.
 Victoria's Seven Sisters ?


Still along the shore, on Route 55.
Three pilgrims walking in front of me.

A little  Shinto shrine along Route 55.

Mikurodō Cave.


Temple 24 - HOTSUMISAKIJI.

A steep hiking trail leads from Route 55 to Temple 24.

Temple 24.

Temple 24.
Praying monk, chanting sutras.

Temple 24.

Temple 24.
Monk drawing the temple caligraphy in my "credential" book (a 300¥  expense at each temple).

Temple 24.
A Singing Stone, or Ringing Rock.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringing_rocks

Temple 24.
Recovering my backpack (the green bag).

Cape Muroto and the lighthouse.

Cape Muroto. 

Cape Muroto's light house. 


Muroto city & Temple 25 - Shinshōji.

An overall run-down village.



Tsunami shelter.

Temple 25.
Of course, as usual, reached through a steep staircase.

Temple 25.

Don't expect they speak any other language than japanese, despite the shop names.

|---| Hotel Fuji, Muroto, ¥4000, room only.


Tuesday 10/Oct/2017.  TEMPLE 26 KONGOCHOJI.
Muroto - Nahari (~23km hike).


Leaving the hotel at 6:30.

An ugly turtle-shaped bus stop shelter.

Finally some pretier looking colors, valid for just three houses however.

Temple 26 - Kongochoji.

Forest path to Temple 26, 140m above sea level.

Temple 26.



Temple 26.

Temple 26.


Back on Route 55.


Route 55.

Kirgawa Antique Street. 

Glimpse on a (minimalistic) living room in one of these 19th century houses.

The two ladies running this bakery suddenly disappeared when making this picture.
They quickly reappeared, offering a cake as ossetai.

A little temple, glorifying an ancient tree, is squeezed between Route 55 and the beach.
Time for a shadowed rest.

Fortunately an alternative 3.2km hiking trail allows to bypass for a while Route 55.




Back along Route 55, with a welcome beer-selling vending machine.
Time for a 30 minutes rest. 

Tuna Ohenro ?

Cutting of a giant "bonsai".

The hotel menu nicely displayed.

The hotel room.
Apart from the famous restaurant, this hotel also provides a nice onsen.


Excellent dinner.

|---| 
Hotel Nahari, Nahari, 5600¥, room only.


Wednesday 11/Oct/2017.
TEMPLES 27 & 28 - KONOMINEJI & DAINICHIJI.
Nahari - Yasu (~20km hike + 28km by train).



A little temple.


Sake bottles cleaning.
Woman working very hard, while the two men are just watching.





Shrunk bottle, due to the altitude change.

Temple 27- Kōnominji.

Temple 27.

Temple 27.

Temple 27.

Temple 27.

- Train ride from Tōnahama to Noichi.


Tōnahama station. 


Noichi, artwork ? 



Found a nice spot for a good looking picnic.

Temple 28 - Dainichiji.


Reached Temple 28.

Temple 28.

Temple 28.

Temple 28.

Temple 28.
This pilgrim is on his tenth Shikoku pilgrimage.

The B&B for tonight.

Bedroom for tonight.

|---| Minshuku Yuan, Yasu, ¥6700 full board.


Thursday 12/Oct/2017.
Reunion with friends Mori and Hiromi. 

B&B breakfast.

Monet's Garden in Kitagawa.
https://www.kjmonet.jp/english/
(for the original garden in Giverny : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giverny)


Map of Monet's garden in Giverny (France).





Map of Monet's Garden in Kitagawa.

Reunion with my kind and generous Japanese friends
(last time we met was in Pushkar, Rajasthan, India, two years earlier).





Mori and Hiromi's mountain hut.



At Mori and Hiromi's superb mountain hut.


A caring attention from my friends...

|---| Mori and Hiromi's flat.


Friday 13/Oct/2017.

TEMPLES 29, 30, 31- KOKUBUNJI, ZENRAKUJI, CHIKURINJI. 

Temple 29 - Kokubunji. 



Temple 29.

Temple 29.

Temple 29.

Temple 30 - Zenrakuji. 


Temple 30.

Temple 30.

Temple 31- Chikurinji. 


Temple 31.

Temple 31.

Temple 31.

Temple 31.

Temple 31.

Temple 31.

|---| Mori and Hiromi flat.

Saturday 14/Oct/2017.

TEMPLES 32, 33, 34, 35 - ZENJIBUJI, SEKKEIJI, TANEMAJI and KIYOTAKIJI. 

Temple 32 - Zenjibuji (by foot).


Morning hike to the mountain temple, with Mori and Hiromi. 

Temple 32.

Temple 32.

Temple 32.

Temple 32.

Temple 32.

Valley view from the temple.
Temple 33 is somewhere behind the next hills.


Leaving Mori and Hiromi until Temple 35.


The hourly ferry crossing the harbour inlet is free for pilgrims !
Arrived just in time.

Happy ?

Temple 33 - Sekkeiji (by foot). 

Temple 33.

Temple 33.

Temple 33.

Temple 33.

Picnic.


Temple 34 - Tanemaji (by foot).


Temple 34.

Temple 34.

Temple 34.



Temple 34.

Halfway between temples 34 and 35 an antique pilgrimage milestone.
This one honours pilgrim Mohei Nakatsukasa who made 280 times the pilgrimage, between 1866 and 1922.
That's five times a year, probably a full time job.

Temple 35- Kiyotakiji (by car).


Temple 35.

Temple 35.

Temple 35.

Temple 35.
One may enter the statue and explore in complete darkness.

Japanese "Italian Restaurant" experience with Mori and Hiromi.

|---| Mori and Hiromi's flat.


Sunday 15/Oct/2017.

Kochi Castle, Sunday Market, Temple  36 and 37- SHORYUJI and IWAMOTOJI.

Kochi Castle.




City view from the castle tower.

Green Tea brewing class.

A complementary promotional activity.


Kochi's trams.

Sunday Market.




These pears can weight up to 3kg.

This one, just 2kg.

Temple 36 - Shōryuji (by car).


Temple 36.

Temple 36.

Temple 36.

Temple 36.

Temple 36.

Temple 36.

Temple 36.


Dramatic views along the coastline.

Temple 37- Iwammotoji (by car).


Temple 37.

Temple 37.
The first temple guardian.

Temple 37.
The other temple guardian.

Temple 37.

Temple 37.

Temple 37.

Temple 37.
Temple ceiling.

Temple 37.
Ceiling.

Temple 37.

Temple 37.

Temple 37.



|---| Maruka Rijokan, Shimanto, Room only, 4500 Yen. 


Monday 16/Oct/2017.

(30.6km hike).


Leaving the Ryokan, prepared for another rainy day.
The Ryokan of last night.



Waterwheel.




Tosa Saga shop for fish and fish derivatives. 

Tosa Saga shop.



Kumai Tunnel, 1905.
Nowadays reserved for pilgrim and local traffic. 


A huge Tsunami shelter structure.




Cape Ino-Misaki, reached by a detour to avoid a road tunnel. 

An old Shinto shrine.


Seafront hotel room.


Excellent dinner.

|---| Umibozu Hotel, Kuroshio, 5800¥, including a seafood dinner. 



Tuesday 17/Oct/2017.

(32km hike).


Leaving the hotel at 7:00.
























|---| Ansyuku, 4000¥, without meals.


Wednesday 18/Oct/2017.




Temple 38- Kongōfukuji.

Temple 38.

Temple 38.

Temple 38.

Temple 38.


Temple 38.


Temple 38.


Temple 38.

Cape Ashizuri. 






Pilgrim restau.
With my backpack already taking a rest.

Lunch picnic at the resthut. 







Whale backbone ?




Selfie shot on the creepy bridge.

Closed... 


|---| Ansyuku, 4000¥, without meals (same as yesterday). 


Thursday 19/Oct/2017.

TEMPLE 39 ENKOJI.
(39.8km).


Time for an 'espresso coffee'.


Naruyama pass, reached after 12km.

Landscape suddenly changes after the pass. 


Pilgrim bench.

While having a little rest, this lady came for a little (unsuccessful) chat.

Ossetai received from the lady.


Bus-pilgrims arrived at the temple too. The driver quickly installed the stand with pilgrim sticks. 

Temple 39.

Temple 39.

Temple 39.



|---| Business Hotel Yoshinoya, Sukumo, 3500¥ without meals. 


Friday 20/Oct/2017.
Sukumo to Uwajima Journey (14km hike and remainder by bus).
TEMPLE 40 KANJIZAIJI. 

At the foot of the Matsuo-tōge Pass. 

A little recovery rest halfway the climb to the mountain pass.

Finally reached the pass.

At the pass, a small temple is kept in a closed wooden cabinet.
A tree (covered in green) grews through the cabinet.

A much easier descend.

Meeting with a more true pilgrim. 

Got a sake as ossetai while awaiting the bus from Ipponmatsu to Temple 40.

- Bus from Ipponmatsu to Hirajō-Fudasho-mae, 0h07.

Temple 40.

Temple 40.

Temple 40.
The 'Hachitai-Butsu' statues fulfill one's wish when covered with water. 

Done, for all eight the statues. 

Temple 40.

Temple 40.

Temple 40.

Uchiumi-Wan Bay, along Southwest Shikoku's coastline (pictured from the bus for Uwajima). 
- Bus from Hirajō-Fudasho-mae bus stop to Uwajima, 1h07 ride.

|---| Uwajima Oriental Hotel, Uwajima, 6400¥, no meals.


Saturday 21/Oct/2017.
Uwajima to Uchiko JOURNEY (16km hike + train ride).
Temples 41, 42, 43 - RYUKOJI, BUTSUMOKUJI, MEISEKIJI.


Uwajima train station.
Anpanman seems to be very popular here. 

Temple 41- Ryukoji. 


Temple 41.

Temple 41.

Temple 41.

Temple 41.
The stairs continue to a Shinto shrine. 

    Temple 41, the Shinto shrine.
    As usual, the shrine is kept by two foxes (or two lions).

Temple 41.
Starts the long descend of the Shinto and then the Buddhist stairs.

Temple 42 - Butsumokuji.





Temple 43 - Meisekiji. 


Funny cafe menu.

Stone cutted garden decor.


Last mountain pass of the day. 

Temple 43.

Temple 43.
The huge straw sandals in the temple gate are remade every 100 years.

Temple 43.

Temple 43.

Temple 43.

Temple 43.

Temple 43.


Train Journey to Uchiko.




Kite Museum.

The town of Ikazaki was famous for the paper factories. Now recognized by a paper kite festival early May. 






Bedroom for tonight.

|---| Hotel AZ, Uchiko, Ehime, 6130¥, incl. dinner and breakfast.


Sunday 22/Oct/2017.
Typhoon day (hurricane).


Wet and windy view from the hotel room.
Today I'll make museum visits and get in some way to my Ryokan. 


Leaving the hotel for museum visits... 

Uchiko-Za Theatre.






A strange publicity ?

Museum of Commercial and Domestic Life. 
The museum shows an old pharmacy and the house of the chemist's family.


The pharmacy shop opened on the street like this. 


The pharmacy shop. 

The pharmacy family sharing a meal. 

The chemist discussing with friends. 

Garden of the pharmacy family. 


Shinto Temple. 



Typical village houses.



Kamihaga Residence and Japanese Wax museum.
The museum shows the residence of a rich wax producer.
The Kamihaga family developed its wax making process in the 19th century, starting from berries of the sumac tree.
Most of the wax was exported overseas and brought a large profit to the Kamihaga family and their factory.
The golden age of the Japanese wax production went from 1868 to 1926.
The museum explains the different stages of wax making. 


The residence. 

The museum.


Garden of the residence. 

Antique toilet of the résidence. To make it clear for all :
"* It is not for use".

German restaurant sausage menu, 1250¥

|---| Fuji-Ya Ryokan, Oda, Uchiko, 4000¥ without meals.



Monday 23/Oct/2017- TEMPLES 45 & 44 (44km, 6:45-17:15, 10h30). 


Village people helping each other to repair the damage from the typhoon.

Temple 45 - Iwayaji (visited prior to Temple 44).

Temple 45.

Temple 45.

Temple 45.

Temple 45.

Temple 45.

Temple 45.

Temple 45.


Furuiwa Rock.

Hatanagowa.



Tōnōmidō mountain pass, the very last one of the day, also here obstructed by typhon-broken trees. 


Tōnōmidō Pass.

Temple 44 - Daihoji (visited after Temple 45).

Temple 44.

Temple 44.

|---| Omogo Ryokan, Kuma-Kōgen, 3500¥, no meals.


Tuesday 24/Oct/2017.



Leaving the Ryokan at 6:15.


Shiogamori, the start of a very long descend towards Temple 46.




Temple 46 - Jōruriji.

Arrival at Temple 46, the first among the seven temples of the day.

Some 14km from Kuma-Kōgen, just 1.1km towards the next temple. 

Temple 46.

Temple 46.

Temple 46.

Temple 46.

Temple 46.




Temple 47- Yasakaji.

Temple 47.
Temple 47.



Temple 47.

Temple 47.

Temple 47.

Temple 47.


Shinto shrine.

Monjuin Temple.

Number nine of the twenty "other" temples. These "other" come on top of the 88 conte de for the pilgrimage.




Many houses have a very nice garden. 

Another garden.

Temple 48 - Sairinji.

Temple 48.

Temple 48.

Temple 48.

Temple 48.

Temple 48.


Public rice milling machine. 10kg of rice is processed for 100¥ (0.75€).



Another nice chat.


Even for minor road works, like this one, an uniformed person will kindly inform and distribute a road map for the detour.

Temple 49 - Jōdoji.

Temple 49.

Temple 49.

Temple 49.

Temple 49.

Temple 49.

Shinto shrine next to Temple 49

Kuwabara Hachiman, Shinto shrine.

Temple 50 - Hantaji.



Temple 50.

Temple 50.

Temple 50.

Temple 50.

Temple 50.

Temple 50.

Temple 50.



Kawabara Hachiman, a Shinto shrine. 

This man, medical doctor, and his sick son wanted a chat. As a matter of fact, they installed a competitively-priced vending machine and a resting bench to catch their "victim" pilgrims.

This guy proposed to cut my hair.

How japanese prevent from bird poop on their cars. 

A strange guy walking with his pigeon. 



A Seven-Eleven convenience store.
Their ATM machines operate with foreign cards, as in Post offices. 


Temple 51- Ishiteji.


Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51, the last one for today. 
Add caption



Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51.

Temple 51.
Leaving the temple grounds,
returning to the busy traffic world.

Matsuyama.


The Dōgo Onsen, said to be the oldest of Japan.

Another funnyencounter.



The hotel for tonight.

Hotel room.


|---| Hotel Sakura, Matsuyama, 4600¥, no meals.


Wednesday 25/Oct/2017.
TEMPLES 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58.
(29.3km hike + train). 


Russian War cemetery. 


Driving school. 



Temple 52 - Taisanji. 

Arrival at Temple 52.







A strange machine.




Temple 53 - Enmyōji.

Temple 53.

Temple 35.

Temple 53.

Temple 53.

Temple 53.

Iyo-Wake train station.

 - 9:43 train from Iyo-Wake to Onishi.



Temple 54 - Enmeiji. 

Temple 54.

Temple 54.

Temple 54.

Temple 54.

Temple 54.

Temple 54.






Temple 55 - Nankōbō.

Temple 55.

Temple 55.

Temple 55.

Temple 55.

Temple 55.

Temple 55.

Temple 55.

Macdonalds meal. 


Temple 56 - Taisanji.

Temple 56.

Temple 56.

Temple 56.

Rice harvesting.


Pilgrim rest hut.


Temple 57- Eifukuji. 

Temple 57.

Temple 57.

Temple 57.

Temple 57.
Mine and Kobo's shaddow.

Temple 57.

Temple 57.





Temple 58- Senyuji.

Temple 58.

Temple 58.

Temple 58.

Temple 58.

Temple 58.
Monastery dining room.

Temple 58.
Monastery kitchen. 

Temple 58.
Bedroom at the monastery for tonight. 

Temple 58.
Monastery dinner. 

|---| Temple 58, Senyuji Monastery, Imabari, 6000¥ including vegetarian dinner and breakfast. 


Thursday 26/Oct/2017.
TEMPLES 59, 60, 61.


Leaving the monastery at 6:15.

Sunrise.

Sunrise, during the 1h descend into town. 


Temple 59 - Kokubunji. 

Temple 59.

Temple 59.

Iyo-Sakurai train station.
- 9:11 train from Iyo-Sakurai to Iyo-Komatsu, 360¥.


Temple 61 (indeed visited before Temple 60).



Temple 61.

Temple 61.

Temple 61 to Temple 60 journey.
A three hours long ascend to 820m.




Picnic at the first mountain pass, 474m.





Temple 60.

Temple 60.

Temple 60.



Takagamo Jinja. 

A snake.

Iyo-Saijō railway station.

Expensive bedroom for tonight. 

|---| Terminal Hotel Tōyo, Nyugawa, Saijō, 8640¥ without meals. All hotels from Iyo-Saijō and from Nyugawa full, except the last room of this hotel. 


Friday 27/Oct/2017.
TEMPLES 62, 63, 64.


A nice morning coffee, awaiting the train to recover the place where I quitted the trail yesterday night. 

Temple 62 - Hōjuji. 

Temple 62.

Temple 62.

Temple 63 - Kichijōji.

Temple 63.

Temple 63.

Temple 63.

Temple 63.

Leaving Temple 63 with some ossetai...

... through the back door.




A message from the police.

Ishizuchi Jinja. A major Shinto site.







Temple 64 - Maegamiji. 

Temple 64.

Temple 64.

Temple 64.

Temple 64, the main hall.

Temple 64, the main hall.

Temple 64.
The "Office" (read: "Shop"), where to collect the 300¥ caligraphy.

Temple 64.

Iyo-Saijō train station.

- 14:30 train from Iyo-Saijō to Iyo-Mishima.

Bedroom for tonight. 

Dinner, part 1.

Dinner, part 2.

|---| Business Hotel Mild, Mishima, Shikoku-Chuō, 5600¥ including dinner.


Saturday 28/Oct/2017. 
TEMPLE 65.


6:10 Breakfast at one of the familiar Convenience Stores.




Temple 65.


Temple 65.

Temple 65.

Temple 65.
Autumn colours are here ! 

Temple 65.



Temple 65.




The minshuku for tonight.

|---| Minshuku Okada, Miyoshi,4000¥ without meals.



Sunday 29/Oct/2017 (27.9km hike + cable car descend). 
TEMPLES 66, 67, 68, 69.
UNPENJI, DAIKOJI, JINNEIN, KANNONJI. 


Leaving the minshuku at 6:20.

A 2.2km forest trail allows to reach 800m height with a constant 15/25% slope.




Approaching Temple 66.

With the increasing height, temperatures dropped dramatically. 

Temple 66 - Unpenji.



Temple 66.

Temple 66.

Temple 66.

Temple 66.

The office of Temple 66.
That's where to collect the 300¥ Caligraphy.
Due to the extremely bad weather, not yet open at my arrival.

Leaving Temple 66.

The Unpenji Ropeway allows a  descend from 927m to 280m in few minutes (discounted to 600¥ for foreigners).

Two other passengers in a 101 people cabin.

Nearby to the temple there is also a ski ressort. 

Base station of the ropeway.


An appreciated rest hut, allowing a map inspection out of the rain.



Temple 67- Daikōji.


Temple 67.

Temple 67.

Temple 67.

Temple 67

Temple 67.

Temple 67.

Temple 67.



Ni-Ike Pond.




Temples 68 & 69- Jinnein and Kannonji.


Temple 68/69.


Temple 68/69.

Temple 68/69.

Temple 68/69.


Temple 68/69.


Temple 68/69.


Temple 68/69.
First caligraphy, for temple 68, 300¥ as usual. 

Temple 68/69.
Second caligraphy, now for Temple 69, immediately after the previous one, another 300¥.

The hotel for tonight.


Bedroom dinner. 

|---| Hatagoya Hotel, Kanonji, 5400¥ including breakfast.




Monday 30/Oct/2017 (34km hike).
TEMPLES 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75.

Temple 70 - Motoyamaji.


Temple 70.

Temple 70.
Unfortunately the pagoda is under maintenance.

Temple 70.
This is how the pagoda would look.

Temple 70.
Depending on the donation, one might mark his name on a more or less important roof tile.

Temple 70.

Temple 70.

Temple 70.

Temple 70.

Temple 70.
Leaving the temple through another gate. 






Temple 71 - Iyadaniji.



Temple 71.

Temple 71.

Temple 71.

Temple 71.
One must climb some 600 steps to get to the cave. 

Temple 71.

Temple 71.

Temple 71.


Temple 71.

Temple 71.

Temple 71.

Temple 71.

Temple 71.

Temple 71.





Temple 72 - Mandalaji.


Temple 72.

Temple 72.

Temple 72.

Temple 72.

Temple 72.

Temple 72.


Temple 73 - Shusshakaji.


Temple 73.

Temple 73.

Temple 73.

Temple 73.

Temple 73.

Temple 73.

Temple 74 - Kōyamaji.


Temple 74.


Temple 74.


Temple 74.

Temple 74.

Temple 74.

Leaving Temple 74 through the main gate.

Temple 75 - Zentsuji.


A vast temple complex.
Along with Kongōbuji on Mount Kōya and Tōji temple in Kyōto, one of the three most important sites related to Kukai. 

Temple 75.

Temple 75.

Temple 75.

Temple 75.

Temple 75.

Temple 75.

Temple 75.

Zentsuji mascotte.

The hotel for tonight.

|---| Zentsuji Grand Hotel, Zentsuji, 4968¥, without meals.



Tuesday 31/Oct/2017.
TEMPLES 76, 77, 78.


Return at Temple 75 to explore the 90m long underground passage in total darkness.
Still not open at 7:30 however.
Temple 75.




Temple 76 - Konzoji.


Temple 76.

Temple 76.

Temple 76.

Temple 76.

Temple 76.

Temple 76.




Temple 77 - Dōryuji.


Temple 77.

Temple 77.

Temple 77.

Temple 77.

Temple 77.

Temple 77.

Ossetais.

MIMOCA- Guén Inokuma Museum of Contemporary Art.







Japan's smallest castle.




Temple 78 - Gōshōji.


Temple 78.


Temple 78.

Temple 78.

Temple 78, Crypte.

Temple 78.

Temple 78.

Temple 78.




A somewhat run down hôtel... 

Bedroom for tonight.

|---| Sakaide Kokusai Hotel, Sakaide, 5000¥ without meals.



Wednesday 01/Nov/2017.


Temple 80 - Kokubunji (Temple 79 lateron this day).


Temple 80.

Temple 80.

Temple 80.










Temple 81 - Shiromineji.


Temple 81.

Temple 81.

Temple 81.

Temple 81.

Temple 81.

Temple 81.





Temple 82 - Negroji.

Temple 82.

Temple 82.
As usual, many stairs to climb.

Temple 82.

Temple 82.

Temple 82

Temple 82.
Office.

Temple 82.


Seems that for this section of the trail most walking henros prefer a bus ride, as the path is often overgrown.

... despite very clear waymarking instructions. 



This region of Shikoku is famous for the bonsai culture.


Even olive trees are found cut as bonsai. 

Temple 79 - Tennōji.


Temple 79.

Temple 79.

Temple 79.

Temple 79.



Christmas is coming. 

|---| Sakaide Kokusai Hotel, Sakaide, 5000¥ without meals (2nd night at this hotel).


Thursday 02/Nov/2017.
TEMPLE 83. 


The bonsai-olive tree of yesterday still alive.



Dangerous crossing of the Kōtō river.


Tamura Jinja (Shinto Shrine).

Tamura Jinja. 

Tamura Jinja. 

Tamura Jinja.

Tamura Jinja.

Tamura Jinja.

Tamura Jinja.

Tamura Jinja. 

Tamura Jinja.

Tamura Jinja.

Temple 83 - Ichinomiyaji.


Temple 83.


Temple 83.

Temple 83.

Temple 83.

Temple 83.

Temple 83.

Temple 83.

Temple 83. Office.

Temple 83.




Ritsurin Garden, Takamatsu.

Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.


Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.


Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.


Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden. The tea house.

Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin Garden.






Ryokan for tonight.


|---| Sasaya Ryokan, Takamatsu, 4000¥ without meals.



Friday 03/Nov/2017.

TEMPLES 84, 85, 86, 87.



Temple 84.

Temple 84.

Temple 84.

Temple 84.

Temple 84.

Temple 84.

Temple 84.

Temple 84.


Near to Temple 84, also at the top of the hill, à ruined modern hotel.

Follows a steep dangrously slippery path downhill.




The region is well known for its excellent quality rock, called 'Ajiishi'.
This table with comfortable seats is sold 7500€ plus transportation costs.



A brief ropeway ride reduces the ascend to the summit by 120m.

High station of the Yakuri Cable Car.

Summit view.

Temple 85 - Yakuriji.


Temple 85.

Temple 85.



Temple 85.

Temple 85.

Temple 85.






Temple 86 - Shidoji.


Temple 86.

Temple 86.

Temple 86.

Temple 86.
A gardener showed me a hidden gate...

Behind the gate, a stone garden.

Temple 86. The office. 

Temple 86.

Temple 86 - the monthly  register of foreign visitors
(September at the right hand side).


Nice lunch at a local seafront restaurant.


Gyokusenji Temple, a little temple on the roadside. 

Gyokussenji.

Gyokussenji.

Gyokussenji.

Temple 87 - Nagaoji.

Temple 87.

Temple 87.

Temple 87.

Temple 87.

Temple 87.

Ryokan for tonight, right in front of the temple gate.

Bedroom for tonight.


|---| Azumaya Ryokan, Nagao, Sanuki, 3500¥ without meals. 


Saturday 04/Nov/2017.

TEMPLE 88 - OKUBOJI. 

A monky crossing the road.

Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage museum and offices. 

Obtained the title of Henro Ambassador. 









Temple 88 - Okuboji.

Temple 88.


Temple 88.
Happy to have reached the last temple of the pilgrimage. 

Temple 88.

Temple 88.
Another diploma, this one purchased from the monks (2000¥ ~15€).

Temple 88.

Temple 88.

Temple 88.

Temple 88.

Pilgrims can leave their walking sticks, just leaving additional 1000¥ to the monks.
Good business.

Temple 88.

Temple 88.
Autumn colours.

Scherpenheuvel atmosphere.


A snake.


Another mountain pass.




The Onsen, natural hot water spring.

Dinner.

|---| Shirotori Onsen, Kagawa, 7100¥ including hot spring, dinner and breakfast.



Sunday 05/Nov/2017.















Reached Temple 3.
The loop is now almost closed ! 

Temple 3.

I remember a nice picnic on these stairs... two years ago.

Temple 2.

Temple 2.

Temple 1.

Temple 1.
DONE !!!

Bedroom for tonight. 

|---| Toyoko Inn, Tokushima, 6100¥ including breakfast.



Monday 06/Nov/2017.









Italian dinner.

|---| Toyoko Inn, Tokushima, 5800¥ including breakfast.



Tuesday 07/Nov/2017.

Otsuka Museum of Art. 
(3240¥ + 500¥ audio guide).


Pieter Bruegel the éluder (~1563).

Jan van Eyck (1432).


Vincent van Gogh.


James Ensor.
All fake ! 

|---| Toyoko Inn, Tokushima, 5800¥ including breakfast.


Wednesday 08/Nov/2017.

- Bus from Tokushima to Osaka, 12:00-15:30, 3h30, 3700¥.

|---| New Japan Capsule Hotel, Cabana, 3690¥, no meals.

CLICK HERE here to reach the second part of this Japan stay




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