CLICK HERE for the 2018 Patagonia travel
CLICK HERE for the 2016 North Argentina travel
Itinerary : map
– El Calafate
- Perito Moreno glacier tour
- Cerro Cristal day hike
– El Chaltén
- Laguna Torre day hike
- Laguna de Los Tres hike
– Los Antiguos
- Cueva de las Manos tour
- Cerro Negro hike
– Esquel
- Bosque de Alerces Milenaros
- Glaciar Torrecillas trekking
- La Tronchita train
– El Bolson
- Cerro Piltriquitrón hike
- Cayon del Azul hike
– San Carlos de Bariloche
- Siete Lagos & San Martin tour
- Refugio Frey hike
– Villa El Chocón
- Dinosaur foot-prints
– Neuquén
– Mendoza
- Wine-tasting bike tour
– Buenos Aires
- Tigre, Paraná river delta
Wednesday 13/Feb/2019.
Home to El Calafate journey.
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| Marseille to Rome, 1h25 flight, first leg out of the three. |
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| Rome to Buenos Aires, 14h flight, second leg out of the three. |
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| Buenos Aires to El Calafate. 3h15 flight. |
– Alitalia flight AZ337 from Marseille (MRS) to Rome (FCO), 17:45-19:10, 1h25.
– 2h35 transit.
– Alitalia flight AZ680 from Rome (FCO) to Buenos Aires (EZE), 21:45-07:55 (next day), 14h10, 574.50€ (for both flights and return).
|---| Aircraft.
Thursday 14/Feb/2019.
Home to El Calafate journey (cntd).
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| Tasty "Alitalia dinner" (raviole al pesce). |
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| Managed to catch the flight for El Calafate, just in time (after a 2h long immigration queue). |
El Calafate.
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| "Santa Teresita del Niño Jésus" church. |
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| A lovely flower shop for Valentine's day. |
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| "Reserva Natural Laguna Nimez" nature reserve. |
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| Looking backwards to town. |
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| Monument to Charles Darwin. |
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| The hotel for the next 3 nights. |
– 3h15 Buenos Aires airport transit (immigration and change of terminal).
– Aerolineas Argentinas flight from Buenos Aires (EZE) to El Calafate (FTE), 11:10-14:25, 3h15, 169€ (one way).
– Airport to hotel bus transfer, 340AR$ ~8.10€.
|---| Nakel Yenu Hotel, El Calafate, ~40.50€/n including breakfast (1st night).
Friday 15/Feb/2019.
"Perito Moreno" glacier, El Calafate.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perito_Moreno_Glacier
– "BAFT" tour, from hotel to Perito Moreno glacier, guide, retour, 1000AR$ ~24€.
– "Parque National Los Glaciares" park entry fee, 800AR$ ~19€.
– "Hielo&Aventura" boat trip, 1h, 800AR$ ~19€.
|---| Nakel Yenu Hotel, El Calafate, ~40.50€/n including breakfast (2nd night).
Saturday 16/Feb/2019.
"Cerro Cristal" hike, Lago Roca, El Calafate.
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| (180° panorama) |
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| (180° panorama) |
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| Crossing a Guanaco. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanaco |
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| Windy Cerro Cristal summit (575m asl), blasts of 75km/h were announced. |
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| Reached the summit after 2h45, (1100m ascent, 5km). |
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| An awarding 360° view from the summit : the Perito Moreno glacier, and Torres del Paine (masked by the clouds). |
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| Steep descent... |
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| "Hotel-boxed" picnic with a huge salad. |
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| Back on the gravel road, heading for the Lago Roca campsite. |
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| End of the hike. |
|---| Nakel Yenu Hotel, El Calafate, ~40.50€/n including breakfast (3rd night).
Sunday 17/Feb/2019.
El Calafate to El Chaltén journey.
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| Centro de Visitantes Parque National Los Glaciaires. |
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| El Chaltén village street. |
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| El Chaltén, village shop. |
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| Hotel for the next two nights. |
|---| Hosteria Alma de Patagonia, El Chaltén, 54€/n including breakfast (1st night).
Monday 18/Feb/2019.
"Laguna Torre" hike.
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| View from "Mirador Del Torre" viewpoint : needle "Cerro Torre" in the center of the picture, mount "Fitz Roy" on the right hand side. |
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| A better view on the "Fitz Roy" mountain. From then on and until evening, the mountain disapeared behind the clouds. |
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| Laguna Torre. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerro_Torre |
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| Contemplating "Grande" glacier and misty "Cerro Torre" from "Mirador Maestri". |
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| Found an real heavy egg. |
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| Back to El Chaltén. |
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| Evening view onto the Fitz Roy mountain. |
|---| Hosteria Alma de Patagonia, El Chaltén, 54€/n including breakfast (2nd night).
Tuesday 19/Feb/2019.
"Laguna de los Très" hike and El Chaltén to Los Antiguos journey.
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| View on "Las Vueltas" river. |
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| "Mirador del Fitz Roy", a joke ??? |
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| How this was supposed to look like... (picture taken from the internet). |
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| Laguna Capri. |
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| How Laguna Capri was supposed to look like... (picture taken from the internet). |
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| Back in town for a welcome hot soup. |
- "Marga" overnight bus from El Chaltén to Los Antiguos, 21:50-08:30, 2090ARS ~50€.
|---| Overnight bus.
Wednesday 20/Feb/2019.
"Cueva de las Manos" visit.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cueva_de_las_Manos
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| Los Antiguos, morning arrival at 9:00, after a 11h night ride along Road 40. |
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| Los Antiguos (4000 inhabitants) is the cherry capital of Argentina. |
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| Steppe with the local ostrich, the rare Darwin's Rhea. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darwin's_rhea |
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| Pigment mountains. |
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| Arrival at the archeological site Cueva de las Manos, UNESCO world heritage. |
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| Not only human hand-prints, also foot-prints from the local ostrich ! |
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| "Cañadón Caracoles" canyon with a white salty riverbed. |
- "Zoyen" full day tour from Los Antiguos for the pigment mountains, Cueva de las Manos, and the Caracoles canyon. 2200AR$ ~52€ including lunch box.
|---| Lau-Fer Apartamentos, Los Antiguos, 24.75US$/n (1st night).
Thursday 21/Feb/2019.
Sendero Cerro Negro hike.
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| Taxi-dropped at the trailhead, near to the Virgen del Camino chapel, or... the middle of nowhere. |
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| Quickly found the trailhead. |
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| Steppe. |
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| Steppe and Lake Buenos Aires view from the Cerro Negro summit. |
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| Another view from the summit (418m asl) reached after 1h40, 7.5km, 300m ascend. |
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| Back at the starting point, the Virgen del Camino chapel. |
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| Saint Expedit, patron for "speedy cases", seems as reliable here as in Reunion island. A prayer made me return to Los Antiguos (12km) with the second hitchhiked car !!! |
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| Back in town. |
- Taxi ride from town to the Virgen del Camino chapel, 150AR$ (retour by hitchhiking).
|---| Lau-Fer Apartamentos, Los Antiguos, 24.75US$/n (2nd night).
Friday 22/Feb/2019.
Los Antiguos to Esquel journey.
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| Hotel for the next three nights. |
- "Marga" bus from Los Antiguos to Esquel, 08:35-17:35, 9h, 1290AR$ ~29€.
|---| Hotel Sol del Sur, Esquel, 40US$/n ~35.30€ incl breakfast (1st night).
Saturday 23/Feb/2019.
Parque Nacional Los Alerces.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Alerces_National_Park
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| A scary sky during the 2h30 bus ride towards the Laguna Menéndez lake |
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| The bus waits 10 minutes at the park office allowing travelers to collect information. |
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| UNESCO world heritage. |
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| Having left the bus at Lago Verde, a footbridge and then a 15 minutes walk lead to the embankment pier. |
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| One little boat traverses the lake, once a day, leaving 11:00. |
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| The destination is reached after 2h sailing. A very special feeling when walking amongst those 2000-4000 years old trees. https://es.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fitzroya_cupressoides |
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| In front of a 2600 years old specimen. |
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| A zoom on the glacier of tomorrow's Torrecillas Glacier trekking. |
- "Transportes Esquel" bus from Esquel to Lago Verde, 08:00-10:30, 2h30, 500AR$ return (18:45-20:45, 2h).
- "Parque Nacional Los Alerces" day pass, 350AR$.
- Boat ride, 1950AR$ return.
|---| Hotel Sol del Sur, Esquel, 40US$/n ~35.30€ incl breakfast (2nd night).
Sunday 24/Feb/2019.
Parque Nacional Los Alerces - Glaciar Torrecillas glacier trekking.
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| Another day in the quiet park. |
Huella Andina.
https://es.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huella_Andina
http://www.wikiexplora.com/Greater_Patagonian_Trail#Prolog
The "Huella Andina", also known as the "Greater Patagonian Trail" or GPT is a long distance hiking trail in the Southern Andes.
Here I'll hike just few kilometers...
- "Transportes Esquel" bus from Esquel to Lago Verde, 08:00-10:30, 2h30, 500AR$ return (18:45-20:45, 2h).
- "Parque Nacional Los Alerces" day pass, 350AR$.
- "Glaxiar Mountain & Adventure Co.", Trekking Glaciar Torrecillas, 4350AR$.
|---| Hotel Sol del Sur, Esquel, 40US$/n ~35.30€ incl breakfast (3rd night).
Monday/25/Feb 2019.
La Trochita and Esquel to El Bolson journey.
La Trochita train ride.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Trochita
The Expreso Patagonico, or "La Trocita", is a narrow gauge railway (75cm) using oil-fired steam locomotives, and runs for 402km between Esquel and Al Maitén.
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| The Trochita assembling the cars, two more to hook up. |
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| Between Esquel and Nahuel Pan. |
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| The Trochita at the "Nahuel Pan" station. |
Esquel to El Bolson journey.
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| El Bolson. |
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| Hotel room for the next two nights. |
- "Via Barriloche" bus from Esquel to El Bolson, 16:00-18:30, 2.5h, 356AR$.
|---| Earthship Patagonia Eco Accommodations, 42US$/n including breakfast, El Bolson (1st night).
Tuesday 26/Feb/2019.
"Cerro Piltriquitrón" day hike.
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| A woodpecker concentrated on his work. |
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| Refugio Piltriquitrón. |
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| Refugio Piltriquitrón. |
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| Cerro Piltriquitrón summit (2289m). |
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| Happy after this 2000m ascent. |
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| A refreshing cerveza at refugio Piltriquitrón. |
|---| Earthship Patagonia Eco Accommodations, 42US$/n including breakfast, El Bolson (2nd night).
Wednesday 27/Feb/2019.
Refugio Cajon del Azul &
El Bolson to San Carlos de Bariloche journey.
Refugio Cajon del Azul, day hike.
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| The hike to Refugio Cajon del Azul takes 2x8.5km according to this map. |
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| The Rio Azul river, reached after a 15 minutes descend. |
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| Some footbridges cross the Rio Azul. |
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| Poor quality wooden stairs. |
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| "Cajon del Azul" canyon. Hard to identify the wooden bridge over the canyon. (zoom at the top center of the picture). |
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| The 4m long wooden bridge spans over the 50m deep canyon. |
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| Refugio Canjon del Azul. |
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| A beer before taking the bus for San Carlos de Bariloche. |
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| Arrived at San Carlos de Bariloche. Hotel for the next four nights. |
- "Transporte La Golondrina" bus from El Bolson to Wharton (starting point of the trail), 8:00-8:30, 30 minutes, 50AR$.
- Taxi (Remise) from Wharton to the hotel. 400AR$/2 (shared).
- "Via Bariloche" bus from El Bolson to San Carlos de Bariloche, 17:30-19:30, 2h, 250AR$.
|---| Hotel Piuké, San Carlos de Bariloche, 38US$ incl breakfast (1st night).
Thursday 28/Feb/2019.
"Siete Lagos, Villa la Angustura, San Martin de Los Andes" tour.
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| Villa la Angostura mascot. |
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| Lago Espejo. |
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| Correntoso river. |
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| Lago Correntoso. |
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| A funny food truck. |
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| An excellent "Trucha al Limon", "Ku de los Andes" restaurant |
|---| Piuké, San Carlos de Bariloche, 38US$ incl breakfast (2nd night).
Friday 01/Mar/2019.
San Carlos de Bariloche.
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| Nahuel Huapi lake. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nahuel_Huapi_Lake |
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| Civic Center. |
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| "Nuestra Soñora del Nahuel Huapi" cathedral. |
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| ... Built in 1946. |
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| A kind of Lombard street... (San Francisco). |
|---| Piuké, San Carlos de Bariloche, 38US$ incl breakfast (3rd night).
Saturday 02/Mar/2019.
"Refugio Frey" day hike.
The trail starts from ski resort Villa Cerro Catedral.
-- a 700m ascent to Refugio Frey, 2h50.
-- a 30 minutes rest at the mountain hut.
-- another 300m ascent to the mountain pass, 1h20.
-- a difficult trail along the crest towards another mountain pass, 1h30.
-- a 1000m descent through the ski area, such to close the loop, 2h20.
-- TOTAL 8h30, 12km (2h50) + 16km 5h10).
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| Trailhead at ski resort Villa Catedral (1030m asl). |
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| Footbridge over the "Van Titter" stream. |
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| A chapel near to shelter "Piedritas". |
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| First view on the mountain, after hiking through dense forest. |
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| Refugio Emilio Frey (1750m asl). |
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| "Laguna Toncek" lake, at the refugio. |
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| "Laguna Herbert Schmoll" lake. |
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| Fork at the mountain pass "Roca Inclinada", left for "Refugio Jakob", right for Villa Catedral. |
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| "Monte Tronador" snow capped volcano (3484m), and the "Rucaco" valley. |
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| Despite being quite flat, following the crest is difficult, at some times even dangerous. |
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| Reached the second pass "Punta Princesa", now looking towards the ski domain. |
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| Map of the ski domain. The trail arrives from the upper left corner, then makes a boring 1000m descent for 6km. |
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| No cable car ride for me ! |
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| Properly queueing people for the return bus. |
- Public bus from Bariloche to Villa Catedral, 0h50 and return.
|---| Piuké, San Carlos de Bariloche, 38US$ incl breakfast (4th night).
Sunday 03/Mar/2019.
San Carlos de Bariloche to Neuquén journey, Dinosaurs and Dinosaur footprints.
Along the road.
El Chocón.
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| "Costa Faro" restaurant. |
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| "Costa Faro" restaurant. |
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| "Costa Faro" restaurant, excellent "trucha al limon". |
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| Dinosaur museum. |
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| Dinosaur museum, Giganotosaurus Carolinii. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giganotosaurus |
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| 23:00 arrival at Neuquen's bus terminal. |
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| Hotel room for tonight, 14th floor. |
- Taxi ride, 300AR$.
- "Cono Sur" bus at 21:00 from El Chocón to Neuquén, 1h15, 175AR$.
- Neuquen city bus, 27AR$.
|---| Hotel del Comahue, Neuquén, 59US$.
Monday 04/Mar/2019.
Neuquen.
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| Delicious "Trucha al Roquefort", at the Nonna Francesco restaurant. |
- "Andesmar" sleeper bus from Neuquén to Mendoza, 19:15-08:30 (next morning), 13h15, ~52€.
|---| Overnight bus.
Tuesday 05/Mar/2019.
Maipu, biking around the wineries.
Mevi winery.
Tempus Alba winery.
Trapiche winery.
La Rural - Rutini winery.
McDonalds, Mendoza.
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| Argentine Peso dropped 8% in one month ! |
|---| Abril Hotel Boutique, Mendoza, 40€/n incl breakfast.
Wednesday 06/Mar/2019.
Mendoza to Buenos Aires journey.
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| Boarding the 1h40 flight for Buenos Aires. |
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| The hotel in Buenos Aires, found right accros that of 2 years ago... |
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| Taking some rest with Mafalda. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mafalda |
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| Monument for the Arctic Santiago de Compostella pilgrimage in front of the Saint Ignatius church. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Ignatius_Church_(Buenos_Aires) |
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| "Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires", MAMBA. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buenos_Aires_Museum_of_Modern_Art |
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| Mamba, Delia Cancela Queen of hearts. |
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| MAMBA, Nicolás Mastracchio Pulse. |
MAMBA collection
in the center of the picture a crucifix.
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| Hotel room for the next two nights. |
– Taxi ride to the airport, 300AR$ ~7.20€.
– Norvegian flight DN6063 from Mendoza to Buenos Aires, 9:30-11:10, 1h40, ~56€ (one way).
|---| Mérit San Telmo Hotel, Monserrat, Buenos Aires, 1650AR$/n ~43€ without breakfast (1st night).
Thursday 07/Mar/2019.
Lower Paraná river delta, Tigre.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraná_Delta
The Paraná river is the second longest of South America (next to the Amazon river) and has the fifth largest delta of the world.
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| "Trenes Argentinos" train at "Mitre" station. |
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| "Borges" station along the "Tren de la Costa" line. |
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| The tiny boat for sailing the smaller canals. |
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| A romantic tea-time platform. ? |
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| Enshrined weekend-house of a former president. |
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| "Museo de Arte Tigre", previously a Casino. |
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| "Foating supermarket" for the inhabitants of the delta. |
– "Subte" underground line "D" from "Catedral" to "Ministro Carranza", 19AR$.
– "Trenes Argentinos" train from "Ministro Carrenza" to "Mitre", 19AR$.
– "Tren de la Costa" train from "Mitre" to "Delta" (end of the line), 19AR$.
– "Natventure" Rio Paraná canals sailing tour, 11:30-12:15, 1h15, 350AR$ ~8.40€.
– Retour.
|---| Mérit San Telmo Hotel, Monserrat, Buenos Aires, 1650AR$/n ~43€ without breakfast (2nd night).
Friday 08/Mar/2019.
Return Home journey.
– Taxi ride from hotel to airport, 950AR$ ~23€.
– Alitalia flight AZ681 from Buenos Aires (EZE) to Rome (FCO), 13:55-06:50 (saturday), 12h55.
|---| Overnight plane.
Saturday 09/Mar/2019.
Return Home journey (cntd).
– 8h40 airport transit.
– Alitalia flight AZ336 from Rome (FCO) to Marseille (MRS), 15:30-16:55, 1h25.
|---| Home.
